until comparatively recently. They are well educated, can all read, and are most persistent letter-writers. No present is more acceptable to them than a few sheets of paper and some pens.
Some of the islands of the group were nearly depopulated twenty years ago by Peruvian kidnappers, who carried off many natives to work in Peru. As a general rule the population of each island is very small—never, as far as I am aware, exceeding a few hundreds. All are governed by a constitutional sovereign and a kaupuli, or parliament. The form of government, in its present state, is to a great extent the work of the missionaries. At Vaitupu I noticed in the kaupuli house some curious couches, carved out of single pieces of wood, with four legs and a solid block like a pillow at one end. To my inquiries it was replied that as some members of the assembly are fond of long speeches, the debates are occasionally protracted, and wearied legislators get rather sleepy, so the couches are provided to enable them to slumber in comfort. All the natives wear European clothes of some sort. The men usually put on at least a shirt; the women's dress is peculiar. They wear a long garment of colored calico, tight round the neck, and reaching in ungirt looseness to the heels. On their heads they put a curious high-crowned hat, cross-laced with bright ribbons, exactly resembling the head-gear of a brigand in the opera of "Fra Diavolo." Ladies of a certain age in the Archipelago are inclined to embonpoint; and a crowd of portly dames streaming out of church in their flowing calicoes and brigand hats, always many sizes too small for them, is a sight not soon to be forgotten.
The Gilbert-Islanders are only partially Christianized. The southern portion of the group is under the London Mission; some of the other islands are under American missionaries, who, however, do not reside in them. Like the Ellice Islands, these also were once governed by kings; but in all the southern part regal government has been abolished, and a sort of federal republic has been established in several islands. The natives seem to have an innate capacity for parliamentary institutions. I have been present at several debates among them, some of which were so far of importance that on their issue depended whether we should be at peace or at war with the inhabitants. Nothing could exceed the regularity and decorum of the proceedings, and some of the speakers were assuredly fluent, and apparently eloquent. The islanders are capital sailors, fearlessly visiting distant islands in canoes of large size, not dug out of single trees but built up of pieces. One very remarkable feature of the islands is their dense population. This is especially striking, as the islands are extremely barren.
The weapons of the Gilbert-Islanders are curious wooden swords and halberts, studded with shark's teeth. They make also complete suits of armor out of cocoanut-fiber, stiff hauberks, cuisses of matting, and close-fitting helmets, like those of the Crusaders. Fire-arms have
