absence of skins, the leaves of the forest were used for costuming, and one is often reminded of this savage custom in the diversions of the rural picnic party, when the leaves of the forest are woven into primitive garlands and aprons. In Brazilian forests Nature is especially kind to the savage, for upon the "shirt tree" is grown the ready-made garment. All the native has to do is to remove the bark of the tree, cut slits in it for armholes, soak and soften the bark, and then place it upon his body. The plaiting of mats for clothing, followed by the invention of the loom, and the weaving of cloth are interesting processes connected with the development of dress.
In contrasting the close-fitting garment of the northern type with the loose-fitting or blanket type of garment in the South, Prof. Starr is led to make the suggestion that this accounts for the two prevailing types of dress which exist in civilized society to-day. One of the great conservative elements in society is woman, who stands as a useful brake upon rash and too impetuous change. "The northern and southern types of dress once came in conflict. The time was that of the invasions of the northern barbarians upon imperial Rome. Both men and women, in the ancient days of Rome, wore the southern dress. The barbarians wore the tighter-fitting garments of their colder climate. The southern man adopted the more convenient type, the woman did not; and so we see to-day our men in jackets with tight sleeves and close-fitting trousers, while women continue to wear in a modified form the dress of the sunny South flowing garments, skirts and cloaks."[1]
We are reminded of this southern type of dress in the spotless robes and vestments of the priest and chorister; and it is not difficult to see in the cap-and-gown fad, which has recently attacked our colleges with the vigor of a prairie fire, a survival of this classic type of dress.
A curious costume is that of the medicine man, the most unique and important individual among savage races. His object is to terrorize his patient by his grotesque costume, his weird movements and incantations, and to kill or cure as the case may be. Catlin gives a picture of one and describes his movements. His body and head were covered with the skin of a yellow bear, the head serving as a mask, a rare and conspicuous thing to begin with. "The huge claws dangled upon his wrists and ankles. In his right hand he shook a frightful rattle, in the other he brandished his medicine spear or magic wand."[2] The medicine man ordinarily administers to his patient roots and herbs, and if these
- ↑ Popular Science Monthly, October, 1891, p. 800.
- ↑ Smithsonian Report, 1885, Part II, pp. 417-419.
