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ning to be called leather." The excess water is now removed, and the skin "stoned," i. e., rubbed and ironed until the wrinkles are all removed.
Now comes the splitting — the most in- teresting operation to laymen. This is accomplished on a delicately adjusted machine having an endless knife travel- ing between two rolls. The upper, or "gauge" roll, determines the thickness that the leather will be s]:)lit, while the lower, a "ring" roll made up of a numl:)er of small rolls independent of one another, forces the skin up evenly, so that any irregu- larities in the hide are not transmitted into the split. The leather is split, as has already been told.
After splitting, all hides are re-tanned and thor- oughly rinsed and scoured. Then follows a bath in a liquor boiled from the ground leaves of the su- mac tree, which serves to brighten them and make them more pliable.
Next the leather is lu- bricated. This process is known as "stuffing" and consists in filling the filjres with a coating of cod oil and other greases. Both sides are treated in the case of top grains, and the flesh side only of splits. Now the leather is tacked upon frames where it is stretched and allowed to dry. After removal from these frames, it is soften- ed, and made ready for the enameling.
This consists first of a number of coats of linseed oil — varying in consistency — which are allowed to dry before re- ceiving the Japan. This also is ap- plied m successive lavers, allowing all to harden. Then the leather is taken to the embossing presses, where the attrac- tive crevices are stamped into the splits. The top grains are usually not embossed in this way, as a special' method of re- tanning accomplishes this. At this stage
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all leathers receive a coat of color, usual- ly black, which is their finished surface. If the leather is found to be somewhat stifif, it is softened by rubbing with a cork armboard. After cleaning and measuring, each piece is rolled up ready for the market.
It is necessary to emboss all splits, and as this is a mechanical operation, a careful examination of the leather will reveal this repetition of design, while in
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the best grades, that are not embossed, this repetition of crevices will not be api)arcnt.
W) clean leather, s[)onge with warm water softened with borax and rub with an old soft cloth ; then rub in a few drops of glycerine and polish with chamois. 'IV) extract grease spots, rub softly with flannel dipped in ether.
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