The successes and failures under these extremely adverse conditions tell us much about what could be expected under more favorable conditions. What succeeds under severe conditions will be a finer product under more favorable conditions, and what spoils under severe conditions will be an inferior product under conditions in which it does not actually spoil. It should be noted that the product prepared by this method is mild and sweet, approaching very closely fresh fish in eating qualities, if it has been properly soaked out.
SCOTCH-CURED HERRING.
The discussion in this paper so far presupposes the desirability of preserving as far as possible the flavor and eating qualities of fresh fish. The Scotch cure does not involve this supposition but aims directly at giving the cured fish a new and distinct flavor from partly decomposed or fermented blood, the purpose being the same as that governing the flavoring of cheese by ripening. The blood is not removed, the fish rather being allowed to cure in its own blood pickle, a distinctive flavor thereby being imparted. They are gibbed, rubbed with dry, fine salt and packed, more fish being added to make up for shrinkage, and shipped or stored in the original blood pickle. This method is suitable for cold but not for warm climates. Since, however, Scotch-cured herring come in a special class of fermented products where different motives and processes are concerned, the method will not be further discussed here.
MILD-CURED SALMON.
In the preservation of salmon by salting advantage is taken of the naturally cool temperatures prevailing in the Northwest, so that the extreme of dehydration by salt is not necessary. Even here no chances are taken, for in most instances the casks of mild-cured salmon are held in cold storage at about 38° F. The selection of salt is principally on the basis of fineness, because a fine-ground salt is necessary to stick to the moist fish, only that which sticks to the fish being used dry. It appears that in the mild curing of salmon some of the principles already referred to may be important. It was pointed out that calcium and magnesium salts combine with the fish protein to form a white, hard flesh. In the case of salmon it is desirable to preserve the red color which is contained in the fat, but the precipitation or coagulation of the otherwise transparent protein is in all probability the cause of whitening, which masks the attractive red color of the fat. Also, what was said about the loss of nitrogenous matter as a consequence of bruises applies to the mild curing of salmon.
BEHAVIOR OF FAT DURING SALTING PROCESS.
So far in this paper discussion has been limited to the behavior of the protein or meat constituents of fish. It will be found that fat is also of the greatest importance and requires very careful consideration and study. All fishes have some fat, but the quantity is variable from species to species, between individuals of the same species, and within a single individual from season to season. The distribution of fat is also different in different species of fish. Some fishes, such
