Page:Rambles on the Golden Coast of New Zealand.djvu/83

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LAKE M‘KERROW.
59

capsizing of the ship’s boat on the bar, and the providential return of this boat in connection with the rescue, were ascertained. They proceeded up the lake, to bring down the diggers whom we had left. They took with them also, to be deposited in the cache (I believe that is the correct word) where we had already found the flour, the following stores:—Four bags of flour, one bag of sugar, one bag of salt, one side of bacon, one bag of biscuits, three pounds of candles, two bars of soap, five tins of sardines, one bag of tea, and three tins of baking-powder. Inserted in a gin-bottle, to keep company with the old coat, was the following written intimation:—“December 12, 1867.—These provisions are deposited here at the expense of the Provincial Government of Otago, for the use of surveyors. Any parties travelling, and requiring supplies, are requested to take what they require, and to leave the remainder carefully secured, for the use of any others who may be in the same position as themselves.” We crossed the lake and camped for the night, near the mouth of the Hokuri Creek.

At the point where we crossed Lake M‘Kerrow, from its western to its eastern shore, for the purpose of camping for the second night, its waters are about three miles in breadth. On the east side, as upon the west, there is a broad white shingle beach—a delightful promenade, much appreciated by us, who, from our cramped positions in the boat, had for days been gazing at upright hills; and not to be despised by even the most elegant lounger on the most extensive esplanade of the most fashionable or highly favoured watering-place. As we saw it, there was room for the driving of two or three four-in-hands abreast of each other; but it is occasionally limited to a narrow strip in front of the rich vegetation of the terrace; this only when the lake is unusually high, by the increase of the streams which flow into it, or—what is, no doubt, a more frequent cause—high spring tides. There was a perceptible rise and fall of the lake, in accordance with the tides, during the short time we were there; and it is stated by Dr Hector that though the great bulk of its waters are fresh, there are occasions when, near the lower end, they are distinguishably brackish. We camped near the mouth of the Hokuri creek—a considerable stream, which runs rapidly towards the lake along a valley visible for some distance along the hills in the direction of Big Bay. While some were camping, or cooking the dozen of pigeons, “rolling fat,” which two of the party brought down with their guns in a very few minutes, others walked along the beach to a point denoted on the map as the site of the “Government Store,” and as far as Gravel Cove—a bay of miniature size, but of much picturesqueness, where, during a part of her visit, the “Matilda Hayes” had been moored. Near where the Government Store should have been found, a pole was seen driven into the beach, surmounted by a board with the inscription, “J. Cook, March 26, 1864.” Had the date been just a little less distinct, there seemed to be a remote hope of one of our party returning to Dunedin with the conviction that this was a record of the visit to these parts of none other than the celebrated Captain Cook; but a learned and eloquent disquisition upon the ancient character of the carving led to a closer examination, and to a realisation of the humble and unromantic truth, that it was simply a record of, I think, the visit of the party who