choring ground; and, as there is nothing to break the prodigious swell which rolls in from the Pacific against the rocky coast, a surf is caused of enormous magnitude, which dashes up and roars along the base of the cliffs in the most terrific manner, trying the nerves of strangers, who, in spite of their conviction that all is safe, and that no storm will occur, cannot at once divest themselves of the most disagreeable associations, connected with a shore so formidable in appearance.
“The operation of landing, at such a place, is both difficult and dangerous, especially at the full and change of the moon, when the swell is always much increased; a remark which applies to the whole coast. I had been told that ships’ boats seldom succeeded in crossing the surf, and that the balsa, or canoe of the country, was the proper thing to use; I made the experiment, however, in my own boat, which was accordingly swamped, and I got soundly ducked for my pains. The balsa, which we employed ever afterwards, is made of two entire seal-skins inflated, placed side by side, and connected by cross pieces of wood, and strong lashings of thongs; over all a platform of cane mats forms a sort of deck, about four feet wide, and six or eight feet long. At one end the person who manages the balsa kneels down, and by means of a double-bladed paddle, which he holds by the middle, and strikes alternately on each side, moves it swiftly along; the passengers, or goods, being placed on the platform behind him. The buoyancy of these balsas enables them to cross the surf in safety, and without wetting the passengers, at times when an ordinary boat would inevitably be swamped. All the goods which go to the interior, at this part of the coast, are landed in this manner. The great bars of silver, and the bags of dollars also, which are shipped in return for the merchandize landed, pass through the surf on these tender, though secure conveyances.
“The Alcaldé, or Governor, was a more dignified personage than our friend at Ylo, inasmuch as he had under him a guard of six soldiers, and a population of nearly one hundred souls. As he treated us in the best manner he could, it was but common civility to give him and his friends a dinner in return. Such grotesque-looking company, however, having rarely been seen before to enter the cabin, many a smile was raised on board the ship at the expence of the captain and his guests.
“On the 20th we left Mollendo, and sailed along the coast with a fresh and fair wind, till the evening of the 24th June, when we anchored in Callao roads, after a passage of twenty-nine days from Valparaiso.” * * * *
“25th of June. – I had an interview this day with General San Martin, on board a little schooner, a yacht of his own, anchored in Callao roads for the convenience of communicating with the deputies, who, during the late armistice, had held their sittings on board a ship in the anchorage. * * * * * On going to Lima next day, I found it in the most singular state of agitation. It was now generally known, that the Royalists meant to abandon the city to its fate; and it was clear, that whatever happened, a violent