POST CAPTAINS OF 1824.
159
below, it consists of a hard grit-stone.’ Which is the site of the Garden of the Hesperides? ‘They lie about two hours from Bengazi, and have no trees, only a few shrubs grow there.’ But what is there remarkable to point the place out? ‘Many deep grottoes, some wells of excellent water, and vestiges of canals to carry water all over the gardens.’ Is there not a wood in the vicinity? ‘No timber fit for building, nothing but a grove of stunted cypress.’ But I have heard from the Bey of Derna, Mourad Reis, and others, that a large forest existed somewhere in that part? ‘I believe there is, farther over toward Bomba, but we did not go so far.’ Have you heard of this forest? ‘Very frequently, and that the wood is fit for large ships.’ What kind of a town is Bengazi? ‘Not so flourishing as formerly; it has a tolerable castle and small port, mud houses, and about lOOO inhabitants.’ Are there any vestiges of the ancient Berenice? ‘A few slight ones, – cameos and intaglios are frequently found, and a hill near the sea is supposed to contain riches, as gold is often picked up after heavy storms.’ Can refreshments be procured there? ‘Sheep, cattle, and corn, but no fruit.’ Why have they not oranges, as they grow so well at Tripoli? ‘They never had any, so do not feel the want of them.’ What kind of places are Tolometa and Taukra? ‘Taukra is a walled town, with many inscriptions; but has few things of architectural beauty except some vine branches entwined in low relief on the pieces of a pediment of grit, or stone of the country. It is built on the sea shore, on a plain[errata 1] bounded on the south by stony mountains bearing the low cypress trees. Tolometa is at the foot of the chain of mountains that extends from Bengazi to Bomba; it offers few vestiges, except some columns of grit-stone belonging to a Corinthian portico, and the tombs of the kings in the Elysian Fields.’ What is there at Barca, and are there any inhabitants? ‘Barca is now only a mountain of stones and ruins at the head of a fine valley, with a great many wells of good water, for which reason it is much frequented by the Arabs.’ Are the Arabs as trusty as those of Mesurata? ‘No, they are exceedingly treacherous, and capable of committing murder for a mere gilt button.’ Would they respect the usual laws of hospitality? ‘Most probably they would, even against their desire.’ Have you seen the harbour called Marza Suza? ‘I have seen Suza, the sea has intersected almost all the town: there are many ruins, little of moveable things there are now only to be seen a few columns of marble granite, and grit-stone belonging to its temples.’ Is it easy to reach Cyrene, on the side of Bengazi? ‘From Bengazi to Cyrene is six summer days’ journey, and the road leads through cypress woods, and fine mountain valleys: it is not difficult.’ Is Cyrene far from Derna? ‘Cyrene is a long day and a half from Derna, over some stony mountains of extremely difficult ascent, through woods of cypresses, and places inhabited by wandering Arabs.’ What aspect has the land about here from the sea? ‘The sea is almost every where bounded by steep mountains of rock, in the fissures of which grow cypresses and some other trees.’ What state is Cyrene in? I have heard the town is entire. ‘The town is nearly destroyed, but the
Errata:
- ↑ Correction: a plain should be amended to a small plain
