Page:Somerville Mechanism of the heavens.djvu/59

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PRELIMINARY DISSERTATION.
liii

spring tides. The spring tides are much increased when the moon is in perigee. It is evident that the spring tides must happen twice a month, since in that time the moon is once new and once full.

The second phenomenon in the tides is the augmentation which occurs at the time of the equinoxes when the sun's declination is zero, which happens twice every year. The greatest tides take place when a new or full moon happens, near the equinoxes while the moon is in perigee. The inclination of the moon's orbit on the ecliptic is 5° 9′; hence in the equinoxes the action of the moon would be increased if her node were to coincide with her perigee. The equinoctial gales often raise these tides to a great height. Beside these remarkable variations, there are others arising from the declination of the moon, which has a great influence on the ebb and flow of the waters.

Both the height and time of high water are thus perpetually changing; therefore, in solving the problem, it is required to determine the heights to which they rise, the times at which they happen, and the daily variations.

The periodic motions of the waters of the ocean on the hypothesis of an ellipsoid of revolution entirely covered by the sea, are very far from according with observation; this arises from the very great irregularities in the surface of the earth, which is but partially covered by the sea, the variety in the depths of the ocean, the manner in which it is spread out on the earth, the position and inclination of the shores, the currents, the resistance the waters meet with, all of them causes which it is impossible to estimate, but which modify the oscillations of the great mass of the ocean. However, amidst all these irregularities, the ebb and flow of the sea maintain a ratio to the forces producing them sufficient to indicate their nature, and to verify the law of the attraction of the sun and moon on the sea. La Place observes, that the investigation of such relations between cause and effect is no less useful in natural philosophy than the direct solution of problems, either to prove the existence of the causes, or trace the laws of their effects. Like the theory of probabilities, it is a happy supplement to the ignorance and weakness of the human mind. Thus the problem of the tides does not admit of a general solution; it is certainly