tral mirror, Under this middle mirror a V-shaped wall-board is arranged with a half-circular ledge and bracket to support a shaving-cup. The two side mirrors are mounted in moldings having a rabbet cut about half an inch deep. The frames should be not less than seven eighths of an inch in thickness, so as to accommodate backing-boards behind the glass. The thin backing-board can be purchased from a picture-frame maker for a few cents a square foot.
Over these backing-boards and the frame a suitable material, such as denim or cretonne, can be stretched and tacked fast all around the edge to give the outside of the glasses a good appearance when the doors are partly or wholly closed.
The woodwork can be stained or painted any desirable shade to match other furniture in the room. As the mirrors are heavy, they must be securely fastened to the wall, particularly at the top, as there is a great deal of strain on the top anchorages when both mirrors are standing out at right angles to the wall.
A Wall-pocket and Hook-bar.
For the side wall im a bedroom, dressing-room, or bath-room, a wall-pocket and hook-bar will often be a welcome convenience.
Fig 4. Wall-pocket and Hook-bar.
The wood need not be more than half an inch thick, and plain joints can be made with glue and screws, and the screw-heads hidden with imitation lead heads. This pocket can be made any size to fit a wall-space, but from 18 to 24 inches in length will be a good size. The space between shelves can be 6 inches, and from the bottom shelf to the hook-bar the distance is 4 inches. Soft wood can be stained and varnished any desirable color, or the wall-pocket can be painted to match the woodwork in the room.
A Cup and a Plate Pyramid.
Fig 5. A Cup and a Plate Pyramid.
