Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/14

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For Vests

• 13. Length from nape of neck to opening required (not to the top button).
• 14.Continued on to full length, and where no jacket is ordered it will be necessary to take the size of chest, waist, and the four direct measures. 1, 7, 8, 9, those published in the scale, page 3, may be used when the customer is fairly proportionate.

For Trousers

• 15. The full length of side.
• 16. The full„ length og„ leg.
• 17. The size of waist.
• 18. The size„ of„ seat.
• 19. The size„ of„ thigh (tight), both dress and undress sides.
• 20. The size„ of„ knee, fashion width.
• 21. The size„ of„ bottom.

For Breeches

• 22. The length of side, from top to knee.
• 23. The length„ of„ to knee from crutch.
• 24. The size„ of„ to„ small from„ crutch„
• 25. The size„ of„ to„ calf bottom, etc., from crutch.
• 26. Size of waist.
• 27. Size„ of„ seat.
• 28. Size„ of„ thigh, (tight) dress and undress sides.
• 29. Size„ of„ knee.
• 30. Size„ of„ small.
• 31. Size„ of„ calf and bottom.

For Shirt

• 32. Size of neck.
• 33. Size„ of„ chest.
• 34. Size„ of„ waist.
• 35. Length of sleeve.
• 36. Length„ of„ body required.

When they will probably stand in the order book as follows: every detail likely to be of service to you being obtained from the customer at the time of measuring and entered in the order book:

• S.B. Lounge. 2 x flaps, ticket flaps, 1 out b. left, 1 in b. right, 7, 15, 23, 5+³⁄₈. 17, 27+¹⁄₂, 6+³⁄₄, 11, 14+³⁄₄, 30, 27, 31.
• Step collar Vest, W.P., guard hole 2 and 3, 9, 21.
• F.F., side pockets.
• 37, 27, 26, 31. 18, 194, 16, 16.
• Breeches. F.F., x pockets, seat strapped and lined chamois, 22, 12, 14, 16+¹⁄₂, 26, 31, 18, 19+¹⁄₄, 11+¹⁄₂, 10, 11+¹⁄₂
• Shirt—13+¹⁄₂, 30, 27, 27, 27+¹⁄₂, 31.

As will be seen these measures are much the same as those usually taken. the principal addition being Nos. 1. 7. 8 and 9. and which come under the heading of Direct Measures, and despite the idea that many people have of being able to take these correctly, we fail to see the difficulty, as the way suggested is at once both simple and effective, and as the best of systems will produce but poor results in the hands of indifferent workmen, this will prove no exception with them, but in the hands of an intelligent tailor we are positive of the success of the method, far beyond any plain and simple breast measure plan. The purpose for which these extra measures are taken are as follows: No. 1 and 8, find the depth of scye and fix the balance in accordance with the requirements of the figure; No. 7 is to locate the scye in its proper position in relation to the front and back, and No. 9 is used to ascertain the height of shoulder or what is perhaps better known as the shoulder slope. Every one of these measures can be applied direct to the draught and as they are taken over the garment it will not be necessary to allow anything for seams.

In such garments as fasten up to the neck it would be advisable to supplement these measures with the size of neck and the height of front, which may be fixed as follows: Place the tape at collar seam behind and measure down the front to any point fancy may dictate, say 12, and having noted this quantity keep the tape fixed at this latter point 12, release it from the back and bring the tape up to the front of neck which measures applied direct will effectually find the height of neck in front. Having thus carefully considered the various measures and the qualities possessed by each, we will pass on to give the proportion they usually bear to the breast measure in a person whose height agrees with and is in general proportion to his chest measure.

In the majority of figures these four measures bear a relation to the breast as follows:

• The depth of scye one fourth.
• The front shoulder, ¹⁄₂ inch more than ¹⁄₃.