Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/21

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facing should be put through the forepart, and one or two in breast pockets inserted. A flower hole is sometimes put in the turn, but it is as often left plain. There are three button-holes only put up the front, as a rule, although we sometimes see four. The style of cuff generally adopted is illustrated on

Dia. 25.

Which is nothing more than the ordinary hole and button cuff, with the braid put on cuff high, and brought to the end of the slit which it is just as well to very slightly round at the bottom which does sway too considerable extent with the tendency slit cuffs have to curl up at the points. In order to get this garment to fit to perfection, great care should be taken to get it to balance exactly to the figure, as if it in loo long in the front it will set away from the waist at back and have a general "falling away from the figure" appearance, whilst if it is too short, it presents an all alive appearance with any amount of surplus material on the back, hence it is always better to err in a too long front shoulder than a too short one for this class of garment.

The Vest,
Dia. 59,

For this Jacket, is either of the no collar or roll collar type, and is of course finished in the same way, and made from the some material as the coat. For school wear, it is generally made no collar. but when worn for semi-dross occasions, of the roll collar, button rather high type. as diagram 61. and when for full dress, the present hollow cut front or horseshoe dress vest is used as in diagram 62, so that a fair amount of latitude in allowed with this part of the Eton Suit.

The Trousers

Are invariably made from black for all dress and semi-dress wear; but for school wear they are frequently made from any dark neat pattern material such as West of England Hairline; it should, however, be remembered that the correct thing is black, and any variation from that must be particularly neat, only being permissible on account of its increased usefulness and wear resisting qualities for school use. One point to be specially remembered is, that the seat of these trousers shows very conspicuously, so that it is not allowable to put in seat pieces or take out cuts that will show below the Jacket, as such would give a "short of material" impression. Care should also be taken in cutting these to avoid all surplus material (only allowing 1+¹⁄₂ over seat instead of 2 inches), and to get them to fit as clean as possible at the back of thighs, just under the ball of the sent. They must he much cleaner fitting at this part than ordinary trousers, so that if the seat angle is slightly reduced it will improve them so for as tit is concerned. though it will reduce the bending or stooping capacity somewhat. It is just such little details as these that are noticed by parents, and odd materially to the success and renown of the tailor. The pockets of the trousers are put in across the top as the side style gape so much; but this is one of those points wherein it will be necessary to consult the wishes of your customer, it not being of very great importance which plan is adopted, though the cross, being much neater, is decidedly preferable.

It may be of service to our readers if we give a list of the articles usually required by youths about to go to any of the leading public schools and colleges.

School Outfits.

• 1 Best Suit.
• 2 School Suits.
• 1 Overcoat.
• 1 Dressing Gown
• 8 White shirts
• 6 Colored shirts„ or
• 4 Flannel shirts„
• 4 Under shirts„
• 4 Pairs Drawers
• 8 Pairs Hose or Half Hose
• 1 doz. Collars
• 1 doz.„ Handkerchiefs
• 2 pairs Gloves
• 2 pairs„ braces
• 2 pairs„ Strong lace Boots
• 1 pairs„ Calf Shoes
• 1 pairs„ Patent Dress Shoes
• 1 pairs„ Slippers
• 1 pairs„ Leggings
• 1 pairs„ "Athletic" Boots or Shoes
• 1 Cricketing Suit.
• 1 Football Suit
• 4 Neck Ties
• 1 Neck„ Wrapper
• 1 Silk Hat
• 1 Polo Cap
• 1 Rug
• 1 Umbrella
• 4 Towels
• 2 Bath Towels
• 1 Sponge and Bag
• 2 Combs and Brushes
• 1 Bag for Ditto.
• 1 Tooth Brush
• 1 Nail Brush„
• 1 Clothes Brush„
• 1 pair Bathing Drawers
• 4 Dinner Napkins
• Knife, Fork, and Spoon.
• 2 pairs Sheets
• 4 Pillow Cases
• Trunk
• Play Box
• Leather Bag
• Key Ring and Label.