Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/44

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will show that about three-fourths of the length of the thigh is on the inside of bone, and consequently it increases or diminishes at that pert, and as it does so it increases or decreases the distance between the legs at the crutch B, diagram 71, and at 10. figure 1. This archway is termed the cocyxial quantity. Now this has nothing to do with fork, but rather the division of the width of the leg. so that it is hollower or straighter accord- ing as it increases or diminishes, so that whenever the thigh is small, the fork requires to be less, but the stride more, and vice versa. Of course it is only in extreme cases the difference between the two methods are seen, and as we believe in such the thigh measure would give the most accurate results, we have adopted it, looking upon it as occupying the same relation to trouser cutting that the shoulder measure does to coat cutting; in fact the parts are very similar in their developments of growth; for just as the line or the top of the shoulder at 1 x, figure 1, always remains at the surface of the skin, and any development of size takes place at the bottom, so does the thigh bone 6 x figure 1, remain at the surface, and the flesh develop itself on the inner side of thigh. This will be of much service to us in our consideration of fixing the centre of leg, so as to obtain a reliable starting point from which to equally distribute the width desired in the legs. This undoubtedly should be so arranged as to come at F and G, and our method of finding this is ¹⁄₈ of the tight thigh as shown on diagram 71, F to D, plus half the cocyxial quantity as at B, and which we have already pointed out increases or diminishes in opposite directions to the relative size of thigh and seat. At the same time, it is as well we should point out that we think there is very little to choose between this method and taking one-sixth of the half seat, as in the larger number of cases it will be found they exactly agree, for if the seat is large in relation to the thigh, the cocyxial quantity would be increased, and so make up what the division of the small thigh was lacking, to make it agree with the division of the seat, so that practically either method would produce the same result, and be equally correct, hence the division of width line can either be found by ¹⁄₈ tight undress thigh, plus half distance the legs are apart at crutch, or ¹⁄₆ of the half seat. Some may prefer the seat measure for this on account of the difficulty in obtaining the cocyxial quantity, if not we should by all means advise them to use it; they will find it quite reliable.

The closing and fly seam of the trousers must occupy the position A C when on the body, and no matter how cut in relation to the other parts, they will still retain this position. Having thus looked at the principles which govern the fit of trousers, we will proceed to lay down

The Trousers System

And begin with the forepart, diagram 67. Line O 45 is the edge of the cloth, on which mark off the length of side from O to 45, and back from 45 to 12 the length of leg. Now square across from 12, and make 12 to seat, and draw a line up at right angles to find fly line, and square the top of front by this, the natural waist line 9, 1, 2, may be made ¹⁄₄ seat and 1 inch, up from line 12, 9. In the absence of a measure having been taken for this, and mark off ¹⁄₄ waist and two seams equal ¹⁄₂ inch, and draw sideseam, springing it out above this line, and curving it out to E, which may be fixed at rather less than ¹⁄₈ seat above 12. that being the position of the hip bone, see figure 1, 6 x, and is the most prominent point at the side of trousers. From 9 to 12+¹⁄₄ is half the fork, which quantity is found hy taking ¹⁄₄ tight thigh, and adding on the difference between the two thighs, which may be fixed at from 1 to 1+¹⁄₂ inches, or found by measures taken at that part; thus: 38 seat, 22 and 23+¹⁄₂ thigh, ¹⁄₄ thigh, 5+¹⁄₂, plus the difference 1+¹⁄₄ equal 7, the hall of which would be 3+¹⁄₂. From 9 measure out to 1+³⁄₄ rather more than half the distance 9, 12+¹⁄₄, and draw fork by a graceful descended curve, always avoiding making it too hollow, and starting ¹⁄₈ seat up from point 9. The division of width line at 6 is fixed at ¹⁄₂ thigh and half the cocyxial quantity (¹⁄₂ an inch for proportion). or by one- sixth of the half seat. It is in the angle at which this is drawn, which produces the open or close style of cut. For ordinary figures who require their trousers to fit in a natural position, this line may be drawn at right angles to 12, 12+¹⁄₄, bringing it more to the side at bottom for easy or open cut