Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/53

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46
JUVENILE AND YOUTHS CLOTHING

course pass through a hole to the top side. The last operation is to put on the rosettes, three on the edge of upper apron, and three down the edge of the corresponding plait, with strings of the some ribbon as the rosettes, passing from under them, so as to tie together.

To make a rosette, take a stiff piece of card cut round, and cover the same as a button with black cotton, than take a ribbon to match either the ground colour or that of the superior strip of the Tartan, about half an inch wide, draw in one edge and carry round and round from outside to centre, finishing with a small button covered with the same, or cut into about three inch lengths and sew them on the double in rows, beginning with the outside and finishing as before, with a button in the centre.

Description of all the Clan Tartans.
Dias. 91, 92 and 93.

With the view of making our description of the Highland Costume as complete as possible, we give these diagrams with descriptions of all the other which appear in the Tailor and Cutter for 1876. Note—The figures to the left of the diagrams of the clan tartans represent the number of eighths of an inch consequently them are 113 eighths in diagram 91, 69+12 in diagram 92. 60+12 in diagram 93. The clans chosen are solely for illustration. At the top is the extent in eighth; of an inch. Three threads are usually the quarter of an eighth, and at the bottom is the color. A work illustrating the various tartans in the proper colours and proportions is published by Messrs. W. & A. K. Johnston, price 2s. 6d.


All members of clans are naturally desirous of knowing their own tartan; and so frequent have been the intermarriages between the two countries, that numerous Englishmen feel interested in the same subject. A Highlander's clothing in his tribal insignia., and he literally displays on his shoulders his clan coat-armour. It may be useful to know one's clan and name by this means; and the following diagram and list will enlighten the enquirer into the science. It will also, it hoped, serve to check a system of corruption to which of late years it has been so much exposed.

We shall now endeavour to make this matter clear, without having recourse to colours; and this, simple as it may appear, has never, we believe, been attempted. In tartans, the warp (or long thread) and the Woof (or cross thread) are each of the same breadth. consequently the pattern is a square or chequer. It will, therefore, be necessity to give the length of the pattern only; that is to say a series of colours complete; and those are repeated as often as required.

Buchanan. -½ azure, 8 green, ½ black, 1 azure, ½ black,2 yellow,½ black, 1 azure, ½ black, 8 red, 1 white.

Cameron. -½ yellow, 4 blue, 1½ red , 8 blue, ½ red, 8 black , 8 green, 1½ red, ½ green,½ red, 4 green,½ red,½ green, 1½ red, 8 green, 8 black, ½ red, 8 blue, 1½ red, 4 blue, 1 yellow.

Campbell of Argyl, 4 blue,1 black, 1 blue,1 black, 1 blue, 8 black,8 green , 1 black,2 white, 1 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 8 blue, 8 black, 8 green, 8 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 4 blue.

Campbell of Braidallan - 2 blue, 1 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 blue, 7 black, ½ yellow, 11 green, ½ yellow, 7 black, 6 blue, 1 black , 1 blue.

Chisholm—2½ red, 8 green, 2½ red, 2 blue, 1 white, 2 blue , 11 red, 2 blue, 1 white, 2 blue , 2½ red, 8 green, 2½ red, 1 blue

Colquhoun - ½ blue, 1 black, 6 blue, 9 black, 1½ white, 7 green, 1 red, 7 green, 1½ white, 9 black, 6 blue, 1 black, 1 blue.

Cumin - 1 azure, 1 black, 2 azure, 3 black, ½ orange, 5 green, 2 red, ½ white, 2 red,3 green, ½ orange, 3 black, 2 azure,1 black, 2 azure.

Drummond - ½ white, 1 azure, 1½ blue, 4 red, 8 green, ½ yellow, 1½ blue, ½ white, 17 red, ½ white, 1½ blue, ½ blue, 4 black, 4 green, 1 yellow, 4 green, 4 black , 4 blue, ½ black, 1 red.

Ferguson- ½ green, 6 blue, ½ red, 6 black, 6 green, 1 black, 6 green, 6 black,½ red, 6 blue, 1 green

Forbes - 1 blue, 1 black, 6 blue, 6 black, 6 green, 1 black, 1 white, 1 black, 6 green, 6 black, 6 blue, 1 black, 1 blue.

Fraser—2½ blue, ½ red. ½ blue, ½ red, 5 green, 6½ red, 1 green, 6½ red, 1 green, 6½ red, 5 green, 5 blue, ½ red, ½ blue, ½ red, 5 blue, 5 green, 6½ red, 1 green, 6½ red, 5 green, ½ red, ½ blue, ½ red, 5 blue.

Gordon - ½ blue, 1 black, 5½ blue, 6 black, 6 green, 1 yellow, 6 green, 6 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 6 blue,1 black, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 blue, 6 black, 6 green, 1 yellow, 6 green, 6 black, 5½ blue, 1 black, 1 blue.

Graeme - ½ black, 6 smalt, 6 black, ½ green,1 azure, 8 green,1 azure, ½ green, 1 azure, ½ green, 6 black, 6 smalt, 1 black.

Grant - [See diagram 91.]

Gunn - ½ green, 7 blue, ½ green, 7 black, 7 green, 1 red, 7 green, 7 black, ½ green, 7 blue, 1 green.

Lamont - 2½ blue, 1½ black, 1½ blue, 1½ black, 1½ blue, 6 black, 6 green, 1½ white, 6 green, 6 black, 6 blue, 1½ black, 1½ blue, 1½ black, 6 blue, 6 black, 6 green, 1½ white, 6 green, 6 black, 1½ blue, 1½ black, !½ black, 4½ blue.

Logan and MacLeman (a).—1¼ red, 1¼ blue, ¾ red, ¾ blue, ¾ red, 7 blue, 5¼ black, 7 green, ½ red, ½ black, 1 yellow, ½ black, ½ red, 7 green, 5¼ black, 7 blue, ¾ red, ¾ blue, ¾ red, 1¼ blue, 2¼ red.