Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/61

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50
JUVENILE AND YOUTHS' CLOTHING.

art to develop, and, combining the whole, produce those coverings for his fellow-creatures which make them appear adorned and beautified images of our Creator. We trust our readers will pardon this digression from our subject proper, but art is a phase of our culling so seldom developed, if not wholly ignored, that we could not let the opportunity slip without a few words, and we trust that we shall not appeal in vain, for we are desirous of impressing on the coming as well as the present race of cutters the necessity of individual effort to maintain what the past and present race have achieved in planing their nation first in our particular amongst the civilised world. This can only he done individual effort, and such will command individual recompense, for as we sow, so shall we reap; and if we make our profession a study in all its branches, we shall, in a few years reap a commensurate golden harvest.

The Prince
Dias. 94 and 95. Fig. 42.

This suit is made from diagonal, and trimmed with a bracket of wide funny braid, traced all round with a Russia braid, in a fancy design which is both simple and effective. The pocket is put in slightly on the bias and traced round with eyes of Russia braid and finished off with crow's toes at the ends. The cull, as illustrated on diagram 95, is to match, whilst a similar design is placed on the side of the knickers. As will be seen, it fasten: down the front with holes and buttons, and an Eton collar finishes it at neck.

The Count,
Dias. 96 and 98, Fig. 43,

Illustrates the cuff and forepart of a similar design, though quite different in actual detail. As with the former, two widths of braid are used, the brood one of a fancy plaited design being placed at the beck, and the front rows of Russia braid being laid on infancy figures. The cuffs designed in harmony, and as with the former the knickers should be trimmed to correspond. Some very stylish effects may he produced by contrasting colours of braid such as a brown on a drub, and so en; but on this point it will be best for our readers to experiment, and then if they have a good eye for effect they will soon be able to decide what will produce the best style under the circumstances.

The Duke.
Dias. 97 to 99. Fig. 44.

This is another similar combination of broad funny braid and a Russia. The effect of this design is very pretty, besides which it is very simple. Some of our readers may possibly experience difficulty in doing this braiding, and it might be of great service to them to know the name and address of a firm who do all kinds of braiding for the trade. Messrs. Lyons. of 66 and 67, Milton-street, London, make this business a speciality, and do a large trade in it both for the wholesale and retail trades. There is still another plan which will help the tailor over the difficulty, viz., to use Mr. Briggs' transfer papers, which me arranged with the design on a piece of thin tissue paper, laid on the part desired to be braided, and a warm iron passed over it; this transfers the pattern to the cloth, when the braid can be easily run on the marks so obtained. Books of the various designs may be had from them at a very small cost, and the price of the papers is quite nominal. His address is 8a, Church-street, Manchester.

The Rifle.
Diagram 100. Figure 45.

This style is an adaptation of the style of used for the Rides of Her Majesty's army. The edges are corded and six drop loops are passed across the breast, the top one extending to the shoulder seams and gradually reducing in width to the bottom one. The double cord in formed in a loop top and bottom. and a netted button put on the top of the drop. Olivets are pinned down the front on one side, and loops of the cord left on the other. The pocket is corded round with a crow°s toe in centre of top, two loops placed at equal distances along the lower edge. The cuffs shown in diagrams 101 and 105 are reduced from that excellent work, "Garment Marking" published at the Tailor and