Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/10

MEASURING

The system described in the following pages is one that is especially adapted to the production of military garments, as may be gathered from the fact that it has been adopted by the authorities at Pimlico, for the instruction of those that pass through the cutting school, with a view of becoming master tailors, and is also used in some of the best military houses in the West End. It is based on the principles of direct measurement, which, in our opinion, is the safest to use for all kinds of customers, and especially so for those who are at all disproportionate, The measures may be taken with accuracy and speed after a very little practice, and in order to make the principle of these measurements plane we have prepared the accompanying figures: The Measures we advuse are as follows:— Chest, Waist, hips, depth of scye, length to waist, full length, width across back, continue to elbow, continue to cuff, neck, front shoulder,over shoulder, across chest, and height of neck. The only measures we need specially refer to, are the depth of scye, the front shoulder, and over shoulder and the cross chest.

To find the scye, make a mark or put in a pin on the centre of back level with the bottom of scye; there are various methods of obtaining this, (1) Take the square, bring it up to the armpit,make a mark at the back scye, now remove the square, place it across the back level with this mark and so get point desired. (2) Place tape over neck, saddle fashion, bring it back under the arms to centre of back, see that it is level and so obtain mark. Either method will produce good results. Measure from nape of neck A, Fig.1 to B.

Front Shoulder.—Measure from A, Fig.1, by D to E, which is level of bottom of scye in front of arm.

Over Shoulder.—Measure from B, Fig.1, over shoulder at C to E, Fig .1

Across Chest.—Measure from F, Fig.2, to front of scye on opposite side G.

Height of neck measures from A. Fig 1 by H, Fig.2 to a point anywhere about the region of 1, note the quantity, fix the tape and measure up to the collar seam at J.

The other measurements are taken as usual.

An average scale of measurements for the proportionate figure is as follows:—

Chest.	Waist.	Scye Depth.	Natural Waist.	Across Back.	Full Length Sleeve.	Across Chest.	Front Shoulder.	Over Shoulder.
34	30	8⅝	16½	6⅞	31	7⅝	12	16¼
36	32	9	17	7¼	32	8	12½	17
38	34	9⅜	17¼	7⅝	33	8½	13	3|4
40	37	9¾	13¾	8	33½	9	13½	18½
42	39½	10⅛	18	8⅜	33½	9½	14	19¼
44	42	10½	18¼	8¾	34	10	14½	20
46	46	10¾	18½	9	34	10½	15¼	21
48	50	11	18½	9¼	34	11	16	22
50	54	11¼	18½	9½	34	11½	16¾	23

Here is the scale used at Pimlico:—

Breast.	Waist.	Depth of Scye.	Natural Waist.	Front Shoulder.	Over shoulder.	Collar.	Height.
33	29	8⅛	16	11¾	16	15	5ft. 4in.
35	29	8⅜	16	12½	16⅝	15	5ft. 5in.
37	30	8⅝	16½	12¾	17⅜	16	5ft. 6in.
39	34	8⅞	16½	13¼	18⅛	16½	5ft. 7in.
41	36	9⅛	17	13¾	18⅞	17	5ft. 8in.
43	38	9½	17¼	14¼	19⅝	17½	5ft. 9in.
45	40	9¾	17¼	14¼	20⅜	18	5ft. 10in.

The latter is based on the assumption that the military figure is decidedly erect. This is undoubtedly the fact with the rank and file, but those who who are constantly engaged in the military trade for officers assure me that in the majority of cases there is only the slightest variation in the attitude or form of the British Officer from the well-built English gentleman.

The following useful hints have been issued by the War Office on the

CARE AND PRESERVATION OF UNIFORM.

Articles of uniform liable to be moth eaten should be unfolded at intervals and well beaten