Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/25

universal pattern, lined with scarlet, a small button of regimental pattern on the top. The facings are of blue cloth in the Royal Highlanders and the Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders: buff, in the Seaforth Highlanders and Highland Light Infantry, and yellow cloth in other regiments.

The gold lace is of the thistle pattern, the Gordon Highlanders having a black line introduced at top and bottom.

SCOTTISH RIFLES.

The doublet for the Scottish Rifles is made of Rifle Green cloth, with collar and cuffs of similar material. Braid is put along the top and down the front of black lace ⅝ inch wide, of thistle pattern; gauntlet cuffs, 5 inches deep in the front and 8 inches deep at the back, each with ⅝inch lace round the top and at either side of the back seam.

Three loops of black Russia braid on each cuff, with a button at the top of each loop. Eight buttons down the front with two hooks and eyes at waist, and two buttons at the waist behind; skirts 7¼, 6¾, and 6¼ inches deep, with skirt flaps on the first two, 6¾ and 6¼ inches deep. The first skirt ¾ from the centre of bottom button, three loops of black Russia braid, with the regulation button at the bottom of each loop. A pocket is placed on the inside of the left breast and in each front skirt; two hooks for the support of the sword belt: black lining; shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, each with ⅛ inch lace; at the base: small regimental button.

Badge of rank of the same material as the button.

THE HIGHLAND DOUBLET SYSTEM

As will be seen this is cut on the same lines as the Tunic, as far as the body part is concerned; the variation of skirts being its special features.

The system is as follows:—O to A 1 inch

A to B ½ more than half depth of scye; continue to C depth of scye and to natural waist D.

O to E, ¹⁄₆ neck plus ¼, and raise above line O ¾ inch; draw back neck.

From top of side seam raise shoulder of back 1 inch more than ⅛, breast, so as to localise seam on top of shoulder; go out 1 inch to get run of sleeve head seam.

C to 9 is ½ breast on to 12 or ⅔ breast.

Continue to 18 and 20½ inches more than half breast for making up, etc. front shoulder less width of back neck.

Now add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep again, using point 20½ as at pivot; where the segments cross each other locates the neck point F.

F to G ¹⁄₆ neck, measure down to H ¹⁄₆, neck plus ½ inch to find of gorge.

Now sweep from point 12 to find the shoulder slope by the over shoulder measure 17 less quantity from C to I. Make width of shoulder