Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/62

and sweep again to point J. Where the two segments intersect each other locates the neck point V.

Now sweep again from point T by the over-shoulder measure less ½ inch, less the distance F B of the back; this will give the slope of shoulder, the width of shoulder being made to harmonise with the back. Mark out from V to W at right angles to V J, ¹⁄₆ breast; mark down from W to X ¹⁄₆ breast plus ½inch, and so obtain the gorge. Now draw line from W through J to S, and so get run of front: beyond which add on 2 inches for the button stand. Square down form H to M, and mark out from M to N and M to L about 3½ inches, drawing the line from H through L and N to Q and R; the width round the bottom edge should be 140 inches: and complete the diagram by adding on about 1 inch beyond S.

Five buttons are placed up the front and a short vent about 15 inches is arranged up centre of back. The dotted line indicates the position of the strap: a small tab is placed at the bottom of the front to fasten together at that part when desired.

Sleeves are drawn as usual with the exception that the width of the elbow is made full ½ breast and the width of cuff, breast plus 1 inch.

The collar as illustrated on this diagram is as follows: O to 8½ neck measure; O to 1½, 1½ inches; O to 2, 2 inches, which gives depth of stand; 2 to 5, 3 inches, which indicates the fall. The Cape worn with this is a very full one it being cut by placing the shoulder points of coat together and taking out a V of about 2 inches as per diagram.

FOOT GUARDS OVERCOAT

The Overcoat worn by the Foot Guards is made of the D.B. Frock style from grey cloth, with shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, with a small button of regimental pattern at the top; back straps are placed down back of pleat, 12 inches long with a point at centre and bottom, with buttons as diagram. Six buttons are placed at the front, pockets are put in the pleat; turn back cuffs are arranged at the bottom of the sleeves.

SYSTEM FOR FOOT GUARDS OVERCOAT

Draw linw O, N W, O to 1, 1 inch; O to D, ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch. O to F, depth of scye; O to N W, natural waist length. Draw lines at right angles to 1, D, F and N W. N W to 1, 1 inch. Draw line O to 1, and so obtain centre of back.

The back is cut on the crease. Shape back neck by making O to A ¹⁄₆ breast. Mark off width of back, on line D E plus ½ inch. Square up from D, ¹⁄₆ breast plus ½ inch, and mark out from to B to C ¾ to 1 inch. Draw line from E to N W, and hollow at G ½ inch. Mark the width of back at waist 2½ inches; F to H is ¼ breast, plus ½ inch: F to T is 2½ breast plus ½ inch; F to J is breast measure plus 3½ inches. Sweep for the neck point, V from 1, by the front shoulder measure, plus ¹⁄₆ inch, less width of back neck; add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep again from J. Where the two segments intersect each other locates the neck point.

Find slope of shoulder at U by sweeping from 1 by the overshoulder measure plus ½ inch, less F B of back.

Square out from V by J V ½ breast, and mark down from * to X ¹⁄₆ breast plus ½ inch. From K to L is 1 inch.

The sidebody and forepart are hollowed ½ inch. Draw line down from H, measure up waist to measure plus 3 inches; hollow the waist seam ½ inch: sweep from K to bottom of sidebody. using E as a pivot, before drawing the line for the bottom of the forepart. The sewing to edge of the lapel is drawn straight, the width of the top is 3 inches, the width at the bottom 2 inches.

For the skirt mark down to * ¹⁄₆ breast, nntl square down from hip button 9 inches. Mark out from 9, 1 inch, and draw line from hip button through that point to bottom. Add on ½ inch of round, hollow waist seam ¾ inch at top. To get the spring of the front, mark down from hip button*. ¹⁄₆ breast less 1 inch. The sleeve is drafted as usual; the width of the