Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/70

CLOTH PANTALOONS

Mark off length of side seam and body rise in the usual way, mark from O to 6 ⅛ of seat, O to 9 ¼ of seat, O to 12½ ⅓ plus ½ inch; square up from 9 and down from 6; 6 to 3 is 3 inches, 6 to 9 is 9 inches: mark out from 9 ¾ inch, and so open the legs, drawing the centre line from 3 through ¾ to O. Mark down from 6, 1½, inches, for extra leg length and from this point measure off the length of leg to knee, small, calf and bottom. Make the width of top side at A, ¼ of waist plus 1 inch; add on 1 inch at O, measure across from C to E, ¼ of knee plus 1¼ inches; measure from O to T, ¼ of the bottom plus 1½ inches; and draw line straight through from E to T: continue the side seam as per dotted and dash line: now measure off the side from C to G, ¼ of knee plus the seam, H to 1 ¼ of small plus the seam; M to P ¼ of calf, plus a seam, O to V ¼ of bottom, plus a seam; complete top side as illustrated. For the underside mark up from 9 to * ½ of seat plus 1 inch, mark out from 9 to 14 ⅛ of seat plus ½ inch, draft seat seam as illustrated. Make top of seat seam 4 inches above top side; to find point of seat piece come in 2 inches from seat seam. Measure up the waist to measure plus 1 inch, and the scat to measure plus 2½ inches; now make up the width of underside at the various parts to measure, allowing for seams. These are made to fit closely at thigh, knee, small and calf A V is taken out of the underside at O which is provided for at W. I trust my readers understand that from H to J and H to K equals the ½ small measure plus two seams, and so on with the various parts.

SYSTEM FOR KNICKERS.

The method for cutting Military Knickers is as follows:- O to 6 ¹⁄₆ seat, O to 9 ¼ of seat, O to 12 ⅓ seat; square down from 6 and square up from 9; from 6 to K is length desired, K to 4, is 4 inches, for bagging over. From 4 to V is ¼ size of bottom desired plus ¾ inch; from 4 to A is the same amount, from A to T is 1 inch, from B to is 10 is ¼ waist; spring out to 13, and complete as shown; add on 1½ inches of round opposite O; for the underside mark out from 9 to 7, ¹⁄₆ seat plus 1 inch; draw line for seat seam from 12 through 7 to top, from 9 to 13½ is ⅛ of the seat, complete seat seam and leg seam as illustrated. Finish the bottom of leg at V; from A to U is same distance as from A to T; measure up seat to measure plus 2½ inches; measure up waist to measure plus 1 inch; make top of sent piece 4 inches above top side and make point of seat piece 2 inches from seat seam, and complete as shown.

For the knee band mark across from O to 15, I inch more than size of knee: O to to ⅔ of that distance, from 15 to 1 is 1 inch curve up from 10 to 1, O to 4 is 4 inches, 15 to 3 is 3 inches; draw line 1 to 3 at right angles to l0. and complete

as shown.