Yesterday, during a great procession in the church, and a great kissing of the hand of the bishop, who was a handsome prelate with fat white hands, covered with sparkling jewels, I saw one of the great gentlemen—I fancy it was the Admiral—laugh as he knelt down before the holy father, and make pretence of kissing his hand; and of a truth the bishop smiled too. They both knew that it was merely a great show. The costume of the priests and the official corps as they sat together in arm chairs in the church, produced as picturesque and imposing an effect, as any costume can now-a-days, and I am quite willing to feel its full effect, so long, at least, as I do not see a deceitful mask in it.
I have heard many complaints of the government of the island, complaints of monopolies, injustice, and official robbery of all kinds, as well among government officials as lawyers. They are said literally to devour the portions of the widow and the fatherless. I have heard almost incredible stories of this kind. People are now hoping great things from the new Governor-General Concha, who arrived here from Spain two months since. The last deposed governor distinguished himself by the peculation through which he became a rich man. The clergy are said to be quite unclerical, the greater number living in open defiance of their vows; and religion here is, I am told—dead. Traffic in slaves is also carried on in secret. The government is cognisant of the fact, but winks at it; nay, indeed, it is said that it derives a gain from it.
Ah! that this earthly paradise should be so poisoned by the old serpent!
Serro, Feb. 10.
I have lived for the last three days at a rural abode in the little rural village, or small town, of Serro, two miles from Havanna, with a German-American family of the name of S., who have kindly invited me to