Page:The National geographic magazine, volume 1.djvu/363

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Round about Asheville.
293

over 4000 feet above the sea; the Unaka mountains form a massive chain from 5000 to 6500 feet in height. That streams should thus flow through mountains higher than their source was once explained by the assumption that they found passage through rents produced by earth convulsions; but that vague guess marked the early and insufficient appreciation of the power of streams as channel cutters, and it has passed discredited into the history of our knowledge of valley-formation. That rivers carve out the deepest cañons, as well as the broadest valleys, is now a truism which we must accept in framing hypotheses to account for the courses of the French Broad and other similar streams. Moreover, since waters from a lower Blue Ridge could never of their own impulse have flowed over the higher Unaka, we are brought to the question, was the Blue Ridge once the higher, or have streams working on the western slope of the Unaka range (when it was a main divide), worn it through from west to east, capturing all that broad watershed between the two mountain ranges? Either hypothesis is within the possibility of well established river action, and both suggest the possibility of infinite change in mountain forms and river systems. Without attempting here to discriminate between these two hypotheses, for which a broader foundation of facts is needed, let us look at the channel of the French Broad below Asheville, in the river's course through the range that is higher than its source. Descending from the old plain into the river's ravine, we at once lose all extended views and are closely shut in by wooded slopes and rocky bluffs. The river falls the more rapidly as we descend, and its tributaries leap to join it, the railroad scarce finding room between the rocks and the brawling current. The way is into a rugged and inhospitable gorge whose walls rise at last on either hand into mountains that culminate some thirty miles below Asheville. At Mountain Island the waters dash beautifully over a ledge of conglomerate and rush out from a long series of rapids into the deep water above Hot Springs. Beyond the limestone cove in which the springs occur, the valley, though narrow still, is wider and bottom lands appear. Thus the water gap of the French Broad through the Unakas is narrow and rugged, the river itself a tossing torrent; but had we passed down other streams of similar course, we should have found them even more turbulent, their channels even more sharply carved in the hard rocks. On Pigeon river there are many cliffs of polished