Page:The National geographic magazine, volume 1.djvu/365

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Round about Asheville.
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face of the valley, but they all plunge by a more or less abrupt cascade into the main rivers. It is thus evident that the tributaries cannot keep pace with the rivers in channel-cutting, and the latter will continue to sink below the surface of general degradation until their diminished fall reduces their rate of corrasion below that of the confluent streams.

If from topographic forms we turn to consider the materials, the rocks, of which they are composed, we shall find a general rule of relation between relative elevation and rock-hardness. Thus the great valley of East Tennessee has a general surface 3000 feet below the mean height of the Unakas: it is an area of easily soluble, often soft, calcareous rocks, while the mountains, consist of the most insoluble, the hardest, silicious rocks. East of the Unakas the surface is again lower, including the irregular divide, the Blue Ridge; here also, the feldspathic gneisses and mica schists are, relatively speaking, easily soluble, and non-coherent. What is thus broadly true is true in detail, also where a more silicious limestone or a sandstone bed occurs in the valley it forms a greater or less elevation above the surface of the soft rocks; where a more soluble, less coherent stratum crops out in the mountain mass, a hollow, a cove, corresponds to it. Of valley ridges, Clinch mountain is the most conspicuous example; of mountain hollows the French Broad valley at Hot Springs, or Tuckaleechee Cove beneath the Great Smoky mountain, is a fair illustration.

But impassive rock-hardness, mere ability to resist, is not adequate to raise mountains, nor is rock-softness an active agent in the formation of valleys. The passive attitude of the rocks implies a force, that is resisted, and the very terms in which that attitude is expressed suggest the agent which applies the force. Hardness, coherence, insolubility,—these are terms suggestive of resistance to a force applied to wear away, to dissolve, as flowing water wears by virtue of the sediment it carries and as percolating waters take the soluble constituent of rocks into solution. And it is by the slow mechanical and chemical action of water that not only cañons are carved but even mountain ranges reduced to gentle slopes.

If we designate this process by the word "degradation," it follows from the relation of resistance to elevation in the region under discussion that we may say: The Appalachians are mountains of differential degradation; that is, heights remain where