Page:The Natural History of Sokotra and Abd-el-Kuri.djvu/40

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THE NATURAL HISTORY OF SOKOTRA AND ABD-EL-KURI.

while a short distance further off lay a cluster of miserable huts. Soon after we had anchored, a half-white half-red pennon appeared over the square white edifice, which we learned later was the residence of the Governor ; but it had not fluttered long before it was hurriedly replaced by a Union Jack. Presently a canoe came off with two men, who informed us that they were of the household of the Sultan, who had that morning left for a residence he had several hours distant in the interior. To one of these men we entrusted a letter to be despatched at once informing His Highness of our arrival, and the object of our visit, and that we had brought for him letters from the Government in Aden which we desired to present as soon as he could honour us with an interview.

View of Hadibu and the Haghier Mountains from Tamarida Bay.

Late the same evening our messenger returned on board to inform us that the Sultan, who had arranged to return over night, would receive us next morning. Accordingly after breakfast the following day. Captain MacArthur and I with Gulaid our interpreter, proceeded on shore, where an aged sheikh was waiting to conduct us, between the ranks of a barbaric guard of honour, to the Sultan's audience chamber in a low unfloored shed a little distance from his "palace." Sultan Selim received us at first very coldly and suspiciously ; but when he had perused General Creagh's communication, and the letter from Mohammed Jaffier, and heard we had come on a scientific mission only and not on a retributory visit, he mellowed considerably, and through our interpreter returned his thanks for the letter we had brought from the Resident of Aden. He accorded us permission to visit any part of the island we desired. Our present he accepted with little effusion, and by a gesture consigned it to one of his relations near him, as if the receiving of "bukshish" was too common an occurrence to necessitate his even touching or looking at it. Mrs. Theodore Bent had advised us to obtain as guides two Sokotri, Amr and Ali, who had accompanied her hasband and herself and been very useful to them during their visit to Sokotra. On making a request for their services from the Sultan, both men, strange to say, were standing close by me among