COSTUME. 471 COSTUME. of him a staff surnioimtcd by a cross or crucifi.x — lliat of a patriarch having two crossbars. Aii- otiier vestment peculiar to archbishops is tlie palliuiii. a circular band of white woolen stutV surrounding the neck, with a pendent strip l)e- fore and l)ehind ; the whole being marked with several crosses. It is a symbol of jurisdiction, worn l)y the Pope and by him bestowed on arch- bishops, who wear it at high mass on solemn days, but only within their own jurisdictions. The sandals were not originally confined to bishops; the earliest authors who mention them allude to a special shape worn by deacons and subdeacons. Their early distinct liturgical use is an incidental proof that the vestments are derived from the costume of everyday life, not from that of the .Jewish priests, who officiated barefoot. The pectoral cross is a small gold cross adorned with jewels, which is worn on the breast by bishops and abbots as a mark of their office. Innocent III. is the first author to men- tion its use. The episcopal ring, worn on the right hand and generallj' set with a large ame- thyst, is supposed to sTOibolize that the bishop is wedded to his diocese. Among less formal vestments, the rochet alluded to above is a close- fitting vestment of linen, somewhat like a shorter alb or a surplice with tiglit sleeves; it is worn by bishops and abbots, also sometimes as a spe- cial privilege bv' canons. The mozzetta is a short cape covering the shoulders, a part of the state dress of bishops when not pontificating, and is worn with the rochet. The mantelletta is a sleeveless garment of silk or woolen stuff reach- ing to the knees, worn by cardinals, bishops, and other prelates. It is used to cover the rochet, so that bishops wear it when out of their own dioceses, the uncovered rochet being a symbol of jurisdiction. The other vestments worn by a bishop have already been described, with the manner of their use, except that, wearing the pectoral cross upon his breast, he does not cross the stole as a priest does when preparing to celebrate. The combination of dalmatic and tunicle with the chasuble is supposed to express the union of all the orders in the episcopal office. Gexer.l. The most important vestment to be mentioned under this head is the cope, a wide cloak of silk or other costly material reaching nearly to the feet and fastened in front by a clasp called the morse, and having a semi- circular hood at the back. While it is worn by the officiating priest in benediction and other solemn rites, it is not distinctly a sacerdotal vestment, and is worn by cantors at solemn vespers and by other laymen. The humeral reil is an oblong scarf of the same material as the chasuble, worn by the subdeacon at high mass when he liolds the paten from the offertory to the Pater noster, and by the priest when giving benediction or carrying the blessed sacrament in procession. It is worn over the shoulders, the paten, p'S'x. or monstrance being wrapped in it. The Levites (Num. iv. ) were allowed to bear the sacred vessels only wlien wrapped in cover- ings; and although those in holy orders fand they alone) are allowed to touch the eucharisfic vessels with the bare hands, the use of the veil is probably an expression of the feeling of rever- ence inculcated by the -lewish rule. The surplice (called also cotfa .at first in Italy, now general- ly) is a garment of linen worn by all clerics and assistants in choir and by priests in the adminis- tration of the sacraments. As late as the twelfth century it was supposed to reach to the ankles, but in modern times it has been very much cur- tailed, and since the seventeenth century com- monly ornamented with lace. I'nder all the other vestments is worn the cassock, a close- litting garment reaching to the feet, which is the distinctive dress of clerics, in church and out. The color varies, being black for a simple priest, purple for a bishop, and red for a cardinal ; the Pope alone wears a white cassock. The berretta (or biret- ta), which is also a part of the priest's street or house dress, nmst be mentioned under official costume, as the rubrics prescribe it for the .sacred ministers going to the altar and for ecclesiastics in choir. It is a square cap with three ridges extending outward from the centre of the top — four in the case of doctors of divin- it.v. ".^t Rome," says Benedict XIV., "and in most churches the berretta was unknown as late as the ninth century. Its ecclesiastical use be- gan when ])riests gave up the ancient custom of covering their heads with the amice till the actual begiiming of the mass." The zucchetto is a small, round skull-cap, of color suited to the wearer's rank, which, if worn in church, is removed only at the most solemn parts of the serv'ices. E.vSTERX Vestments. The influence which between the eiglith and twelfth centuries in the West bore so strongly upon the development of ecclesiastical costume, that of the numerous liturgical writers, was almost wholly lacking in the East, where between the Patriarch Germanus of Constantinople in the eighth century, and Simeon, Archbishop of Thessalonica in the fif- teenth, scarcely one of importance is to be named. The natural conservatism of the Oriental mind has also militated against change in the ecclesias- tical usages. The Western maniple, amice, and cope are imknown in the Greek and Russian churches ; in place of the first-named, somewhat similar bands iepimanikia) are worn around both arms bv bishops, priests, and deacons, those of the bishop being richly ornamented. The lee- tor and readers wear an ample white or reddish vestment called phelonion, but differing from the priestlv chastible in only reaching to the waist. The subde.ieon wears the sticharion, a sort of dalmatic, narrower and shorter than that of the deacon, who wears in addition the orarion or stole hanging before and behind over the left shoulder. 'The sticharion has undotibtedly de- veloped frotn the alb. btit more closely resembles the dalmatic both in shape and material. The priest wears the sticharion, the epitrachelion (a long narrow stole something like an archiepis- copal pallium in the West), the zone or girdle, and the phelonion or chasuble, which in Russia is much abbreviated in front, but hangs down to the ankles behind. The episcopal vestments are in the main similar to those of the priests, but more richlv decorated : the bishop's phelonion is adorned with many small crosses. Instead of this vestment the Greek metropolitans, and in Russia all bishops since the time of Peter the Great, wear the snklcos, a tight-fitting garment supposed to symbolize the seamless robe of Christ. The episcopal gloves, sandals, and ring are not in use. The head-covering resembles a crown more than the Western mitre. Tlie speeific episcopal insignia are a pastoral staff, generallj'
