LACE. 669 LACE. from that time it became common to sew patterns <ir figures of pillow lace upon a machine-made or tulle backgiounil. This machine-made net (known as 'bobbin net') marked ,the beginning of the manufacture ol uiachine-madc lace, which has worked a complete revolution in the lace trdde, so that the prices formerly obtained for hand- made lace can no longer be commanded. The lace machine, or frame, is so complicated that it would be hopeless to convey any really intelli- >;ible appreciation of it without a voluminous description of all its parts. One or two points of chief importance may, however, remove any (lilllculty in understanding its general principles. First, then, as in the loom (see Loom), there is a series of warp threads, placed, however, pcr- ]>ondicularly instead of horizontally, and not so close as in ordinary weaving. Behind these threads, and corresponding to the interspaces, is a row of ingeniously constructed Hat bobbins or reels resting in an arrangement called a comb- hnr or boU-brir. These are so placed that, with 11h> first movement of the machine, each bobbin, which carries its thread with it. passes through two of the parallel and pcri)endicular threads of the warp, and is lodged in another and similar l>olt-l)ar in front of the warp. But this front bolt-bar, besides an advancing and receding mo- tion, has another movement, called shoyjiiiuj — from right to left. When it receives a bobbin by its forward motion it draws back, bringing (he bolibin and thread through two of the up- right threads; it then s/ior/s or moves to one siile, and goes forward again, taking the thread tlirough the next two warp threads, and lodging the bobbin on the back bolt-bar again, one dis- tance beyond its last space; this it recovers by the next movement, and it again passes through the first space, to be again received by the front bolt-bar. By these movements the bobbin thread is twisted quite round one upright thread of the warp: another movement then shifts the bobbin, so that it will pass through the next pair of up- right tlnvads. and so carry on its work, the war]) threads moving at the same time, unwind- ing from the lower beam and being rolled on the u|iper one. There are twice as many bobbins as there are threads in the warp, each bolt-bar hav- ing a set which it exchanges with the other, and all being regulated with great nicety. The varia- tions upon these operations, which apply only to bobbin net. all depend upon the variations which can be given to the movements of the flat, disk- like bobbins. The a|ii>lication of .Jacquard's apparatus for pattern-weaving to lace, in 1837, made possible the production of tulle broche or flowered nets, and since that time the process of reproducing the patterns of hand-made lace by machinery, as well as of making new designs, has been ex- tensively developed. Nevertheless, there is no danger that the production of machine-made lace will efTace the demand for the hand-made prod- uct, any more than that of process engraving will supersede flic work of the artist. The following list contains the names and a brief description of some of the most important kinds of point and pillow laces: AIcik^oii. a needle-point lace first made, in the seventeenth century at .len(;on. France, sometimes called the queen of laces. It is characterized by a reseau of hcNaeonal mesh and the enrdonnet, stifTened with horsehair Arficiitini is similar to the point d'Alencon, but the design is of a larger, bolder pattern, and the brides are twisted. Bay- lux, modern bobbin laec, made at Bayeux, Xor- mandy, in imitation of rose point and other old patterns. It is often made in large pieces for shawls, fichus, etc. ISlonde, originally made of unbleached silk, from which it derived its name, but now made only of white or black silk, and in large flowery patterns. It is a favorite with the Spaniards, the mantiUa or national headdress being made of this lace. liiscttc. a coarse and simple lace made by French peasants, and of little value. Bride, ground composed wholly of bars or brides without any reseau or network. Brussels (see Brussels Lace). Chatitilly, a silk lace, either black or white, the older pat- terns of which are vases and baskets of flowers similar to the Chantilly pottery. The material used in weaving these faces is a .silk called grenadine d'.lais, which is so spun that it is lustreless and looks like black flax. Cluny, a purely fanciful name adopted from the Musee de Cluny, where examples of ancient lace are ])reserved. This is a pillow lace made chiefly by the peasant women of Le Puy, Frjince. Du- cliesse. a variety of pillow lace originally made in Belgium, containing raised work somewhat similar to that in Honiton lace. E>i<]Ush or point d'.liifileterre, a pillow" lace much admired during the eighteenth centur.y. It was probably a Brussels lace smuggled into England by mer- chants, and given an Englisli name to evade the sumptuary edicts which in 161)2 were issued by Parliament to check the enormous sums s])ent on foreign lace and to encourage the home prod- uct. Lace of equal fineness, however, could not be produced in England, on account of the in- ferior quality of English flax. The term gui- pure was originally applied to a lace in which a cordonnet was composed of a stout cord whipped around with finer threads, and in this sense is applied to the trimming gimps of the present day. Gradually, however, the name is extended to all laces in which the patterns are connected by brides or ties instead of being on a network or reseau, and still later for all laces in which the grounds were very large, with ir- regular openings. Horiiton, a pillow lace made at Honiton. in Devonshire, England. The pat- terns, consisting of sprays or flowers, are made separately and then bound together with brides or secured to a net background. Mechlin, a light, filmy pillow lace, a distinguishing feature of which is the fine, bright thread which out- lines all the ornamental shapes in it. The reseau is a hexagonal mesh, yottiiifjliant. a general name for machine-made lace, from Xottingham, England, where It was first made. Spanish, a modern black silk lace with a flowered pattern, mostly of Flemish make. 7'orehon. a bobbin lace made of soft and loosely twisted but stout linen thread : an imitation of it is largely made by machine. V(7/r(ici>niics, a bobbin lace with a square or diamond reseau, and the same kind of thread throughout the pattern and ground. It is admirably suited for washable fabrics, and as such has always been a favorite. Consult: Leff-bre. Embroidery and Laoe, trans- lated from the French by Alan S. Cole (London, 1888) : Cole. Ancient yeedle-Point and Pilloio T.ace (London. 1875) : id.. Cnntor J.ecturis on the Art of Lace-ilaking (London. 1S81); id.. Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Lace
