accuses the ignorance of its owner. If it has more branches than its strength is able to nourish, it becomes weakened, if more fruit, the latter appear poor, weazened, and half ripe. The last is damaging to the crop, but the first ruins the tree.
THE TIME TO PRUNE.
This must vary with the climate, soil and variety to be dealt with. It seems quite clear that no pruning can be done to advantage with the crop still on the trees, so it must be put off till the berries are gathered. This would give a period from October to March in which to carry on this necesssry labor.
The year in which an olive orchard is thoroughly pruned is one of a light crop, the real benefit received from this process, not being manifested until the following year. So in an orchard of any extent it would be better to divide it into halves or even thirds and to prune one of these parts each year.
It is greatly to be desired that the clippings should not be allowed to lie about under the trees but should be immediately burnt on the spot. The tendency with us will probably be to save as much available wood as possible for future cuttings; in that case such wood as is selected for this purpose should be disinfected and the remainder burned. In this way a multitude of noxious insects, adhering to the bark and leaves, are destroyed at once; and if not so treated, live to propagate, and renew their attacks on the trees in increased numbers.
Pruning, as we have seen, consists in keeping the trees well shaped and in good disposition for bearing the most fruit. But it sometimes happens that more heroic remedies are demanded.
When an olive orchard appears to be healthy in every respect but gives no fruit, it is owing to one of three causes. First; That the trees are too near together. Second; That the sap has been corrupted and makes only wood, and Third, that there are trees or plants in the vicinity that do them harm.
