Page:The Prose Works of Percy Bysshe Shelley (Volume 2).djvu/163

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journal—germany.
149

thousand tricks: the remaining passengers were a woman, and an infant.

The country was uninteresting, but we enjoyed fine weather, and slept in the boat in the open air without any inconvenience. We saw on the shores few objects that called forth our attention, if I except the town of Mannheim,[1] which was 5 a.m.,
2 Sept., 1814.
strikingly neat and clean. It was situated at about a mile from the river, and the road to it was planted on each side with beautiful acacias. The last part of this voyage was performed close under land, as the wind was so violently against us, that even with all the force of a rapid current in our favour, we were hardly permitted to proceed. We were told (and not without reason) that we ought to congratulate ourselves on having exchanged our canoe for this boat, as the river was now of considerable width, and tossed by the wind into large waves. The same morning a boat, containing fifteen persons, in attempting to cross the water, had upset in the middle of the river, and every one in it perished. We saw the boat turned over, floating down the stream. This was a melancholy sight, yet ludicrously commented on by the batelier;[2] almost the whole stock of whose French consisted in the word seulement. When we asked him what had happened, he answered, laying particular emphasis on this favourite dissyllable, C'est seulement un

  1. In Shelley's edition Manheim: in Mrs. Shelley's, Mannheim. It would seem that the slowness of the diligence par-eau admitted of a visit to this Town, and that the voyage to Mayence from the point past Strasbourg at which the canoe was abandoned occupied the greater part of three days,—two nights (the 1st and 2nd of September) being passed in the boat, in the open air, and one (the 3rd) at Mayence.
  2. In Shelley's edition batalier, but batelier in Mrs. Shelley's.