Page:The Works of J. W. von Goethe, Volume 12.djvu/130

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120
LETTERS FROM ITALY

Neumark, some of a similar kind, in which, however,the laminæ separated in pillars. Ferber considered them to be volcanic productions; but that was fourteen years ago, when all the world had its head on fire. Even Hacquet ridicules the notion.

Of the people I can say but little, and that is notvery favourable. On my descent from the Brenner, I discovered, as soon as day came, a decided change of form, and was particularly displeased by the pale, brownish complexion of the women: their features indicated wretchedness. The children looked equally miserable, the men somewhat better. I imagine that the cause of this sickly condition may be found in the frequent consumption of Indian corn and buckwheat. Both the former (which they also call “Yellow Blende") and the latter (which is called “Black Blende") are ground, made into a thick pap with water, and thus eaten. The Germans on this side pull out the dough, and fry it in butter. The Italian Tyrolese, on the contrary, eat it just as it is, often with scrapings of cheese, and do not taste meat throughout the year. This necessarily glues up and stops the alimentary channels, especially with the women and children; and their cachectic complexion is an indication of the malady. They also eat fruit and green beans, which they boil down in water, and mix with oil and garlic. I asked if there were no rich peasants. "Yes, indeed!" was the reply. "Don’t they indulge themselves at all? don’t they eat anything better?"—"No, they are used to it."—"What do they do with their money, then? how do they lay it out?"—"Oh! they have their ladies, who relieve them of that." This is the sum and substance of a conversation with mine host’s daughter at Botzen.

I also learned from her that the vine-tillers were the worst oft, although they appeared to be the most opulent; for they were in the hands of commercial towns-