Page:The Works of J. W. von Goethe, Volume 12.djvu/371

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LETTERS FROM ITALY
345

great joy, we discerned the mountains of Sicily. The wind improved; and we bore rapidly toward Sicily, and a few little islands appeared in view. The sunset was murky, the light of heaven being veiled beneath a mist. The wind was pretty fair for the whole of the evening: toward midnight the sea became very rough.

Sunday, April 1, 1787.

About three in the morning a violent storm. Half asleep and dreaming, I went on with the plan of my drama. In the meantime there was great commotion on deck: the sails were all taken in, and the vessel pitched on the top of the waves. As day broke the storm abated, and the sky cleared. Now Ustica lay right on our left. They pointed out to me a large turtle swimming a great distance off: by my telescope I could easily discern it as a living point. Toward noon we were clearly able to distinguish the coast of Sicily, with its headlands and bays; but we had got very far to the leeward, and tacked on and off. Toward midday we came nearer to the shore. The weather being clear, and the sun shining bright, we saw quite distinctly the western coast, from the promontory of Lilybæum to Cape Gallo.

A shoal of dolphins attended our ship on both bows, and continually shot ahead. It was amusing to watch them as they swam along, covered by the clear, transparent waves at one time, and at another springing above the water, showing their fins and spine-ridged back, with their sides playing in the light, from gold to green, and from green to gold.

As the land was direct on our lee, the captain lay to in a bay behind Cape Gallo. Kniep failed not to seize the opportunity to sketch the many beautiful scenes somewhat in detail. Toward sunset the captain made again for the open sea, steering northeast, in order to make the heights of Palermo. I ventured several