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Back Drapery
As worn at present. This is simply a full width of 54 inch material gathered or box pleated into the waist-band at the back. Sometimes it is arranged with one large box pleat, at others two, but the principle is the same. "When steels and bustles were worn, an extra round was needed at the top to go over them, but as these are now out of date, there is only the smallest amount of round necessary. The back is generally made with plenty of material in its drapery, but the same principles apply to it as with the front drapery as regards folds, &c., so that it will be unnecessary for us to repeat.
Section Nine.
Blouses, Shirts and Combinations.
In reviewing the previous sections to see what garments have not been treated of, we especially noticed those which form the subject of this section.
Amongst the many special garments the tailor who caters for the fair sex is called upon to make, the shirt and blouse are perhaps the garments that are mostly worn, being suitable for all kinds of outdoor exercise, be it boating, lawn tennis, or the latest development for ladies' cricket: but probably the larger share of the orders the tailor receives will be for boating costumes in flannel or similar materials.
The Marlow Shirt. Diagrams 88 to 93.
These are of course mostly made from cambric, and got up in the same way as a gent's shirt, the front being inserted of a different width stripe, or the front may be the only part striped, the body part being white. If our readers look at a gent's shirt, and see how that is made, they will have a capital guide for making these. There is, however, one important difference, they are left open all down the front, and only extend to about 5 inches below the waist. That part is generally worn under the skirt, a fancy waist belt being worn over the waist band of the skirt. A tape is placed at the waist, and a drawing tape run through it, thus enabling the fulness to be equally distributed all round the waist, or as may lie deemed the most effective. This garment is very popular amongst the frequenters of the Thames Valley in the Summer time, as well as at those fashionable seaside resorts, such as Brighton, Hastings, &c.
The System. Diagram 88. Plate 40.
Square lines V 21, V F: from V to F is one-sixth of the neck, as also is the bottom of the gorge, in fact the gorge is swept by point V: from V to 2 is one-eighth of the natural waist; to 8¼ is ¾ inch less than one-fourth of the breast: to 15½ is the natural waist length, below which it is continued to taste; from 2 to D is one-fourth breast, from which a line is squared down as shown, and a line drawn from F to D, which finds the slope of the shoulder: from 8 to W is 2 inches more than a fourth breast; the scye may now be drawn, hollowing ½ inch in front of line D; the side is drawn at right angles from W, and the waist hollowed h inch or more; a button stand is left on down the front of about 1 inch, and the front is complete.
We now take the front to cut the back, and lay it down as per dotted line of diagram 2: fill in the back scye 1 inch, as in diagram: draw a line straight across from D, and add 1 inch beyond the extreme edge of front, so that there will he about 2 inches to full on or pleat into the yoke on either side.
The Yoke, Diagram 90, Plate 40.
Is cut also by the forepart, which is represented by the dotted line, the shoulder seam is cut the same: but to find the back seam, come up half way between the bottom of gorge and V, give a little extra width below D, and shape the remainder to taste. This style is very popular. We now pass on to
The Sleeve, Diagram 91.
From O to 2 is 2 inches, or whatever is allowed over the fourth of the breast when drafting the forepart from 8½to W; continue on to 17½, the length of sleeve desired: make from 2 to 8½ the half size of scye, plus any allowance that may lie desired for pleating on the shoulder, and make the width to taste. The bottom of the sleeve is put into a cuff, the outline of which is illustrated on diagram 93.
Diagram 92 shows one of the many styles of collars worn on these garments, and which it is unnecessary for us to describe further, as the only variation necessary to introduce is the length.
Lady's Blouse. Diagram 94.
This is probably one of the simplest garments it is possible to cut, as it is really only the outline of a bodice, minus any waist suppressions. They may be worn in a similar way to the shirt described above, and the fulness arranged above the skirt at the waist. The doi and dash line across the front and hack illustrate
