even trench-ploughed. Manure heavily, put on a Potato or Corn crop the year previous to planting out, and cultivate it freely the whole season. The soil will then be in order to receive the trees. Plant them from forty to fifty feet apart, giving the tree at once a strong support, to prevent its being tossed with the winds. Tie between the tree and the stake some soft material, which will keep the bark from being chafed. Experience teaches that all young orchards should be cultivated and cropped with any kind of grain or root crops excepting grass or hay. After the trees have come into a good bearing state, grass is not at all objectionable; but as soon as the trees show any indications of a meagre and stunted growth, the ground should be well enriched in the vicinity of their roots. We see no reason why fruit trees should not occupy the space allowed for brush and saplings around the fields and about the fences. It cannot be the cost, for that is a mere trifle. Every farmer may at least grow a part, and should have a few reserve trees by him every year. It is merely because it is customary to allow these “weeds of the forest” to grow in place of luscious fruit.
Pruning.—This object is generally considered a labor, instead of a pleasant pastime. We can never admit that it is necessary to use an axe and a saw to prune a tree, more especially a fruit tree; that treatment belongs to the dark ages. A strong pruning:knife, good hands, with a judicious head, are the accompaniments of the orchardist. Cut off all cross branches, shorten those that stretch out beyond the general outline of the tree; thin out all superabundant wood, to allow the permanent branches and shoots to be from six to twelve inches apart. It will rarely be necessary to cut off a shoot of one inch in diameter.
Insects.—We are not aware of any destructive enemy to the Apple tree that cannot be kept under by a moderate share of vigilance. The Borer, a white, fleshy grub, that commits
