is the vivid, light-green and cheerful foliage of the woods on the numerous islets which rest like water-gardens on the surface of the lake. Flocks of ducks, storks, and snow-white herons inhabit these islets, and a noise of parrots with the tingling chorus of Tamburí-parás was heard from them as we passed. This has a cheering effect after the depressing stillness and absence of life in the woods on the margins of the main river.
Cardozo and I with two Indians took a small canoe and crossed the lake on a visit to Senhor Gaspar José Rodriguez, a well-to-do farmer, and the principal resident of Cayambé. His eldest daughter, a home-loving, industrious girl, had married the Portuguese Miguel, my old travelling companion, a few days before we left Ega on these rambles. We had attended and danced at the wedding, and this present visit was in fulfilment of a promise to call on the family whenever we should be near Cayambé. Senhor Gaspar was one of those numerous half-caste proprietors, a few of whom I have had occasion to mention, who by their industrious, regular habits, good sense, and fair dealing, do credit to the class to which they belong. We have heard so much in England of the worthlessness of the half-caste population of Tropical America that it is a real pleasure to be able to bear witness that they are not wholly bad. It is, however, in retired country districts where I have chiefly mixed with them. Some of them, such as the friend of whom I am speaking, are, considering their defective education, as worthy men as can be found in any country. There is however, it must be confessed, a considerable number of super-
