Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/114

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108
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

DOUBLE BREASTED RIDING COAT

LESSON NO. 42

This garment is cut the same way as the single-breasted riding coat with the difference that this is cut with a double breasted front. The 1 inch button stand is not allowed on this front. When the draft is complete until the bust at Y and seams allowed at 33, we draw a line from 33 to 19, 21 and 22, as always. Now draw a straight line from 22 up to 37 where the rever for the double-breasted front begins. Now curve the bottom of front from 28 out to the edge of front to 35 and begin the rever. Measure from 35 towards the front, at the bottom curve, 2½ inches around the breast line. From 38 to 39 is 3½ inches; cross a line from the bottom line up to 41, 39 and 56, which makes the edge line of the rever.

Now mark the place for the buttons; for the first button divide from the bottom waist line up to 39, which makes 41 and draw a line from 41 to 42, which makes the stand line for the collar. 42 is 1 inch from O and cross a parallel line from 44 to 37 and raise a line up from 37 to 40, as shown on the diagram. This space from 37 to 40 shall measure about 3 inches, this can be changed for more or less. Connect from 40 to 41 with a curve, as shown on the diagram and this will complete the front.

The skirt part for this garment is increased with additional width of the rever, which is 2 inches and it is increased from 57 to 5S and on the bottom from 16 to 17 with 2 inches. The flap on the skirt is 2 inches lower from the waist, from 45 to 46 is 2 inches; the size of this flap is ¼ of the size or 9 inches; from 46 to 47 is 4½ inches, 46 to 48 is 4½ inches; 47 to 49 is 3 inches and 48 to 50 is also 3 inches By all means, this garment is finished the same as the single-breasted riding coat. This completes the double-breasted riding coat.