Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/162

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THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

THE PROBLEM OF MISSES' SIZES

In beginning to draft patterns for misses size, it shall be understood that there is a table of proportions for misses' sizes, which is shown in front of this page and which is to be followed in three different sizes, which are sizes 14, 16 and 18. It shall be understood that these numbers are the ages of such persons and serve as a guide for size. In addition to these numbers, we have chest and bust measurement. The size 14 is measuring 32 chest and 35 bust. The size 16 is measuring 34 chest and 37 bust. The size 18. is measuring 36 chest and 39 bust and the other additional measurements are to be found on the table of proportions and great care shall therefore be taken in following up the additional measurements in order to know the difference of these measurements between the women's and misses' sizes.

Note the difference between the back depth and waist length as they are great deal shorter for misses than for women and so are the chest and bust measurements a great deal smaller and it is because they are specially designed to clothe young women. The waist and hip measurements are also smaller to correspond with the chest and bust measurement and for better results, it is advisable to compare the entire table of proportions for misses with the table of proportions for women's sizes in order to have a better understanding on the entire subject.

In continuing for further progress on pattern drafting for misses sizes, remember that all instructions are followed the same as the women's with the exception of the change of measurements. By this is meant that the spaces amounting to 1 inch or 1¾ or any amount, which is used in inches is allowed the same way as for women's sizes. For instance, in allowing seams, raise of a collar stand, or the allowance for the width of back, the amounts are all the same. The space of hip measurement, which is the space between waist and hip line shall always be ⅓ of the size, which half way means 16, of the size, or to better say, the space for size 16, which is followed by chest 34 shall be between waist and hip ine 5¾ inches, which may be found on an ordinary divisional square. The amount for darts, whatever it may be, shall be taken out the same way as for women's sizes and also the spaces between gores shall be continued the same as usual.