Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/164

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THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

MISSES' BLOUSE FOUNDATION

LESSON NO. 105

Before commencing to draft a misses' size, remember that all details of drafting for misses are about the same as for women with the exception that trifle changes are made on the proportional measurements for size 16, which are as follows:

Chest 34 inches
Bust 37 inches
Waist 23 inches
Hip 40 inches
Back Depth 6¾ inches
Waist Length 15 inches

Now begin to draft; draw a square line from A to R and A to C. Measure from A to B 6¾ inches back depth and from A to C 15 inches natural waist length. Now draw a line from A to R. B to W and G to X. After all these lines have been crossed, measure from A to D, B to E and C to F, ⅔ of size, which amounts to 11⅜ inches for size 16 or for 34 chest and draw a line down from D, E to F.

Now produce the width of back; take half between B and E on the breast line, which makes G and allow from G to H, 1¼ inches and then draw a line up from H to J, which will make the width of back. Now measure from A to J 16 of size amounting to 2¾ inches in full for this size 16 and raise 1 inch up from J to k, which makes the back neck space. Now connect with a line from K against I to L and square a line down from L to H. which brings the entire width of back and width of shoulder. Now finish the entire width of back by making 2 inches from G to M and then draw a line up from M to A, which completes the entire back foundation.

To continue the front foundation measure between E and N and D and E 16, of size or 2¾ inches for this size and allow the same amount from O to P and from P to R and from P to Q. Then draw a line from P to Q and connect Q to the back depth point at the back to T and measure from K to L and apply the same from Q to U and connect U to M.

Now measure the bust from T to V and allow 3 inches for seams from V to W and then draw a line from W to Y, which makes the entire line of front. When being as far as this, allow a seam at the front neck from R towards the front and raise up at that place ½ inch to S and then draw a line from S against the bust to W down to Z, which will complete the entire edge of this front foundation and which is showing a space of fullness of blouse between Y and Z.