Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/176

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240
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

MISSES' SLEEVE WITHOUT FULLNESS—-SIZE 16

LESSON NO. 114.

To begin this sleeve, follow the same rules as for 36 with the difference of the change of size and see diagram No. 1. Draw lines as usual from A to F and A to D. From A to B is ⅓ of size or 5¼ inches for this size, Take half of A and B, which makes C.

Now begin the inside length of the sleeve. From B to D is inside sleeve length, which is to 17½ inches for this size. E is half way between B and D. Now cross all lines from A, B, E and D. D to I and A to F is half of size or 8½ inches for size 16 according to 34 chest. Now connect a line from I to F. From G to V is one-twelfth of size or 1⅜ inches. Take half of C and V, which makes T and square a line down from T to the straight line to U and see diagram No. 2 for continuing.

To continue finishing, this sleeve, watch carefully diagram No. 2. From T to X is 1 inch and then divide from I to D, which makes J. From J to K is 2 inches and draw a line from K against I. Make from I to O 1 inch, O to P 1 inch and H to N also 1 inch in for the inside sleeve at the elbow. From G to S is ½ inch out for the top sleeve and from G the same ½ inch can also be taken out if desired for a narrower under sleeve and otherwise draw a line from G to N and N to O, from P to H and H up to S. From K to L, is 1½. inches and from E to M is 2½ inches. Now connect a line from K to E, E to M, M to X, and X to W, ¾ of an inch up and ⅜ of an inch seam allowed towards the front.

Now begin to curve the top part of the sleeve with a circle, which is made by the star (*), which is to be found between T and U. The curve shall begin at V and finish at C and then finish with a curve from V to S, Now curve the under sleeve from W and raise the seam, as shown on the diagram, and curve towards G, from G, to N and N to O. The inside curve at the elbow line at N and H should be somewhat filled in so, is not to have the lines broken and then the same amount shall be deducted at the outside of the elbow of this sleeve at E and M,

Note the line al the inside brake of the sleeve from S to N to P shall not be used unless a very curvy sleeve is desired, which is very seldom used. The under sleeve is longer with a ½ inch, which is to be guided by the straight bottom line from Q to O and draw the parallel space of the same amount from L to R. Otherwise this sleeve is complete with all seams allowed. For different changes of sleeves follow instruction of women's sizes and use this foundation pattern of misses' size 16.