Page:Thirty-five years in the East.djvu/76

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not pass. From the course of the river, however, we had known in what direction Bagdad was situated ; and, travelling upwards, we very soon reached a few black tents; but the people were so poor that they could not offer us any hospitality, as they had food neither for us nor our horses. The only service they proffered was to give us a guide, who brought us, after half-an-hour's walk, to the tent of the sheikh, where we met with a very kind reception. The sheikh himself was at this time in Bagdad, but in his absence his wife performed the duties of hospitality. She ordered the servants to light a fire under the large tent, where we dried and warmed ourselves, and were served with fresh coffee and rice-pilaw. The servants took charge of our horses, and after having taken my meal, I went to sleep. A corner of the tent served me for my bed, and my saddle-bags as a pillow. Before dawn, the Tartar awoke me, saying : " We mu5t proceed on our journey." I drowsily arose, and at the same time my servant showed me that they had cut through my saddle-bags on one side, and extracted the bundle containing my best clothes. I remembered having heard, during the night, some goats bleating outside the tent ; and probably the thief had brought them there, that he might perform his exploit with more security. The Tartar began to make a noise, threatening to arrest the sheikh at Bagdad, and to make him pay ten times the value of the stolen property, if they did not find out the thief. They made researches, it is true, but without any good result. On the same day, towards evening, we arrived at Bagdad, where I was informed that my intended patient required no more medical assistance, as he was reposing quietly in his grave.

At Bagdad I also performed several operations for the stone, but 1 did not vaccinate, in consequence of being informed, to my great astonishment, that several Christian ladies obtained their livelihood by vaccinating. Provisions were at this time so cheap at Bagdad, and the coin so bad, that one shilling was valued at about five grush ( piaster ) ; consequeatly, litUe was to bs obtained there.we were