be offered for sale. In the centre of the floor stands a long table bestrewn with a multitude of white porcelain covered cups, manufactured specially for the purpose of tasting tea. The samples are placed in these cups, and hot water of a given temperature is then poured upon them. The time the tea rests in the hot water is measured by a sand-glass ; and when this is accomplished, all is ready for the tasting, which is a much more useful than elegant operation.
The windows of the room have a northern aspect, and are screened off so as to admit only a steady skylight, which falls directly on a tea-board beneath. Upon this board the samples are spread on square wooden trays, and it is under the uniform light above described that the minute inspection of colour, make, general appearance and smell takes place. All these tests are made by assistants who have gone through a special course of training which fits them for the mysteries of their art. The knowledge which these experts possess is of the greatest im- portance to the merchant, as the profitable outcome of the crops selected for the home market depends, to a great extent, on their judgment and ability. It will thus be seen that the merchant, not only when he chooses his teas for exportation, but at the last moment before they are shipped, takes the minutest precautions against fraudulent shortcomings, either in quality or weight. It is possible, however, for a sound tea, if undercooked or imperfectly dried, to become putrid during the homeward voyage, and to reach this country in a condition quite unfit for use. This I know from my own experience. I at one time was presented with a box of tea by the Taotai of Taiwanfu, in Formosa, and when I first got it I found that some of the leaves had a slightly green tint and were damp. I had intended to bring this tea home to England; it was of good
