after each disaster, have been reverently restored; and now he may be seen looking out upon wide pleasure-grounds — in a more or less dilapidated state, it is true — but still now and again regaled with theatrical performances, and leading, for an idol, a not altogether unenjoyable life. In the same spot are two drum- towers, superintended by a number of inferior deities, and used more especially to spread the alarm of fire, or to notify the approach of a foe. Then there is the Confucian temple ; besides a host of other Buddhist and Taoist sacred edifices, occupying the best spaces of ground within a city where the miserable population have too often scarcely breathing space.
Our route now lies away among the azalea-clad mountains in the province of Che-kiang. But before re-embarking we must have a parting glance at the streets of the *' Model Settlement. "
There are no cabs ; but the residents, many of them, possess private carriages. The substitute for the cab here is the wheel- barrow and Japanese jinricksha — very undignified sort of convey- ances, but nevertheless comfortable enough when one has once grown accustomed to their use. Ahong procured me two of these wheelbarrows from the nearest stand, and thus, with my two boys, my baggage and *'Spot, " I set out for the Ningpo steamer. There is not much risk of accidents in a steady-going vehicle such as this. The coolie who propels it is neither skittish nor given to shying, and the pace he puts on is never dangerous.
The Portuguese were established on the river Yang at the beginning of the sixteenth century, and were finally massacred by the natives in revenge for their barbarous conduct, according to the Chinese account. These Portuguese were said about that time to have joined with the Japanese in several of their raids on the maritime provinces of China; and it will be remember- ed that, some fifty-six years ago, there was another massacre
