of the Europeans who flocked thither when the place was opened ; but, nevertheless, as the centre of the districts which produce the Congou teas, it must always secure a very important share of foreign commerce. The total value of the trade in foreign shipping was reported to be about 14,000,000 taels in 1871, while in 1873 it appears to have fallen off; but this was owing to a sort of commercial stagnation which has been felt all over China. In 1895 it stood at 44,507,502 taels.
The Taotai of Hankow, Ti-ming-chih, who furnished me with a passport for the upper Yangtsze, and whom I had twice the pleasure of meeting, had been born in the province ofKiangsu, and commenced his official career at the age of thirty, by an appointment to a modest clerkship. From this his abilities advanced him step by step, until he attained his present position, where he earned a high reputation by his just, mild and in- telligent rule.
Woochang city, on the opposite bank of the river presents a picturesque appearance, due partly to the elevated ground on which it stands and partly to its celebrated tower, which tradition reports to have been first set up there 1,300 years ago. This tower was overthrown by the followers of the " Heavenly King " during the Taiping rebellion, and after an interval of about fifteen years rebuilt and finished. It is quite unlike the ordinary Chinese pagoda, and from its peculiar design runs no risk of ever being mistaken for any other monument.
During the journey to the upper Yangtsze, which I now pro- pose to describe, I had two American gentlemen for my com- panions. Two native boats were secured, and we engaged them to carry us to Ichang. Into the smaller of these craft we stowed the cook and servants, reserving the larger one for our baggage and ourselves. Our boat was divided into three compartments
