Page:Tourist's Maritime Provinces.djvu/253

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NORTHERN NOVA SCOTIA
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ily. Each generation has "improved" and "built on" until passages are all up-a-step and down-a-step and go in and out to low rooms with sharp-angled ceilings. The inn is so oddly sweet, the locality so attractive that one wishes to like Guysboro, but cannot, quite, unless by lucky chance one's ancestors fought for Britain too, and one is in a position to prove it to the scrutinous dwellers in the haughty little houses who with "pride in their port, defiance in their eye" regard the trespassing tourist.

There are two ways to leave Guysboro. Until the railway from Dartmouth is completed we return to the Intercolonial by stage and continue to Mulgrave through Tracadie where in the midst of an Acadian settlement there is a trappist monastery founded here nearly a century ago; or the wee steamer that daily (except Sunday) braves the uncertain Atlantic winds will in three hours carry the departing one across Chedabucto Bay and between the green walls of Canso Strait to Mulgrave.

Mulgrave is the station farthest east in Nova Scotia before crossing to Cape Breton. It is also the home port for a fleet of small packets that link numerous sequestered villages with the outer world.

One of these is Canso, which the Indians called "Kamsok" and the French, who were here in the days of de Monts and Denys, "Canseau." Cape Canso is the most easterly foreland on the continent, south of Labrador. Behind it, on a breezy