Page:Tourist's Maritime Provinces.djvu/268

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218
THE TOURIST'S MARITIME PROVINCES

Robin & Co. nearly twenty years before on Cheticamp Island, across the bay from the present village. Approaching the settlement we pass the priest's house, then the splendid church with a seating capacity of 4000 which is Cheticamp's main pride. Other houses, the little cabins where the fishermen live while on shore during the summer and well-painted stores line the harbour-front until Mrs. Lawrence's cottage is reached. Here we are received by a cheery, rheumatic old lady in whom we discover the Mrs. Wiggs of Cheticamp. Her bright panes survey the strait through which half a hundred fishing-boats pass in the dawn, and return at night with their fares of turbot, fat herring, cod and mackerel.

Sail- and motor-boats make the trip of 8 miles along the edge of the coast to lofty Cap Rouge and continue 20 miles to Pleasant Bay, noted for its sword-fish. The Kinburn's Thursday sailing is extended to this point. Vessels with steady keels and sturdy sides go on to Cape St. Lawrence and, rounding the northern shore of Cape Breton Island, come to St. Lawrence Bay in Victoria County and to Cape North. A little way south of this awe-inspiring reach is Aspy Bay, to which steamers run from Sydney.

The road to Cap Rouge is narrow and declivitous and only the rash will attempt it with a double team. Cheticamp Island is usually visited by motor-boat, but a road leads to it past the house