opposite. Thus the Pabbah men, who probably have not much intercourse with the larger islands, form a kind of exclusive channel of communication with St. Kilda, which accounts in some measure for its being comparatively unknown to the other islanders. Considering, therefore, its remote situation, and the difficulties, real and imaginary, with which its attainment is regarded, it is scarcely to be wondered that this interesting island is so little known.
I will not say that the voyage is entirely without danger, for St. Kilda is so exposed to the Atlantic, that only vessels capable of riding at anchor in safety on its heavy swell, or small enough to be hauled up on the beach on arrival, are safe to go in. Of course the latter, to general tourists, will be the most convenient mode, and was the one adopted by my brother and me last summer; hiring a boat for £5. at a small village called Coshlatter, on Harris, with three men as its crew. It was 18 feet in the keel, yaul built, and contained several wisps of straw for us to sleep on, a sack of oatmeal, a peat fire in an iron pot, and five or six bottles of whiskey. We sailed from Rowdil at 10 o'clock p.m., on the 30th of May, and entered the small bay on the south-east of St. Kilda, at 11 next morning, after a pleasant 13 hours' trip in a beautiful night, so light throughout, though there was no moon, that I could easily consult my watch at midnight.
As it was about the time of the tacksman's visit, the natives thought it was his boat, and were anxiously waiting to receive us, and although our nearer approach undeceived them, bestowed on us and our crew every care and attention. Mr. McKenzie, the minister, met us on the rocks, at the landing, which is close to the village, and took us home to a most acceptable cup of tea: and to his kindness we were indebted for hospitable entertainment during our stay, as well as for much of the information concerning the islands, that I now relate.
The group called St. Kilda[1] situated about 60 miles west from the Sound of Harris, consists of three islands, and their adjacent rocks. Of these, St. Kilda, properly so called, is alone inhabited; it is about four and a half
- ↑ See Map, Plate 3*.
