Page:Travels & discoveries in the Levant (1865) Vol. 1.djvu/226

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182
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

has probably been much changed by the severe earthquakes to which Rhodes has been from time to time subjected; so that, though it cannot quite be said of this once famous city, etiam periere ruinæ, its site is far less striking than that of most Hellenic cities from the absence of marked and definite features.

I feel, therefore, that the few disconnected facts which I have here noted down are of little present interest; though they may, perhaps, aid future travellers in exploring the ancient topography of Rhodes.

XIV.

Rhodes, May 4, 1853.

A Few days ago, I started with M. Ducci, the Russian Vice-Consid, to pay a visit to the monastery of Zambika, five hours distant from Rhodes, on the south coast of the island, where the inhabitants of the adjoining village of Archangelo were celebrating their Easter, called λαμπρή by the Greeks. On our arrival, we were ushered into a spacious courtyard full of peasants. In the middle of the crowd was the only ecclesiastic in the monastery, an old gentleman with a venerable beard, a long gown, a black cap, such as we see in pictures of the 15th century, and a staff in his hand. (See Plate 12.) He came forward and gave us a hospitable welcome, making an attempt to salute me with a kiss on each cheek;