Page:Travels from Aleppo, to the city of Jerusalem, and through the most remarkable parts of the Holy Land, in 1776.pdf/22

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Travels from Aleppo,

Jerusalem lies about 25 miles westward of Jordan, and about 42 east of the Mediterranean Sea 90 miles south of Damascus. 300 miles south of Aleppo, and 230 miles north east of Grand Cairo in Egypt. It stands on a high rock, with steep ascents on every side, except on the north. It is surrounded with a deep valley, which is again encompassed with hills. The city at present is about three miles in circumference: The walls and fortifications seem to be very ancient; but the private buildings are mostly very mean and thinly inhabited. The resort of pilgrims hither, only renders it considerable; and the accommodating them with lodgings and provisions the chief business of the inhabitants. For the protection of the pilgrims against the Arabs, and to receive the tribute exacted of them, a Basha always resides here with a guard of Janizaries. As to the particular places in and about Jerusalem, we have already described.

June 13. We being resolved to set forward in the morning, the father guardian came and gave us his blessing, and sprinkled us with holy water and desiring us to excuse our bad treatment, and that, if any time, we had been dissatisfied we could pass it over, but we knew it was a compliment, for we had the civilest entertainment imaginable, and very far from disgusting us; for they were not only ready to be our servants but our slaves: yea, our honest father Tomaso never ceased, almost from morning to night, from bringing us either victuals or drink, or asking whether we wanted any thing. And now for this his fourteen days service, we were no ways capable to recompence him, for they would take no money but for our victuals, and some other small services, we therefore presented to the convent thirty livres a-piece, and some that had servants more The father procurator receiving it, they entered all our names in a book, and the sums we gave. The book where the names only were written we had a view of, and took a copy of all the Englishmen that were in it, from the year 1601 to this day, being 158 in number.

Now taking our leave, the fathers shewed great affection to us weeping, and expressing their desires to enjoy our company longer; and our desires were as much to be nearer home, to have an account of our friends.

June 14. We departed, our muletters having provided horses, intending to take Emmans in our journey, but night coming on, we made St. Jerom’s church our sleeping place; formerly fathers lived in it, but the Arabs came upon them in the night, and cut all their throats. The church is well built, and bath been adorned with pictures on the walls, of which some remain to this day. About two hours riding from Jerusalem we pass'd over the brook, out of which they say, David gatherered the peeble stones to slay Goliah. June 15. We arrived at the convent in Ramah about 10 in the morning, where