Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/126

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112
VINCENT’S SYSTEMS OF

UNDRESS COAT.

Diagram 66.

Blue cloth with turn-down collar, length to cover hips.

D. B., five holes and buttons, four to button.

Pockets without flaps at hips, in line with bottom button.

One out B left; 5 inch slit at bottom of sideseams.

Round cuffs laced as for full dress, omitting slash.

Midshipmen wear same distinction marks on collar, as previously described.

Naval Cadets: a button hole of white twist, 1¾ inches long.

Clerks and Assistant Clerks wear one row of white cloth, ¼ inch wide round cuffs.

See Diagram of Reefer for the cutting of this garment.

NAVAL MESS JACKETS.

Diagram 149.

Blue cloth, D. B., six holes, four in turn, and two below.

Padded turn-down collar; slightly curved over hips with a rounded peak behind; two welt pockets at sides.

Cuffs laced as for full dress, but minus slash.

For Midshipmen and Cadets (Diagram 150) blue cloth, single-breasted, seven buttons up front.

Three notched holes in cuffs, stand collar to hook and eye.

White turn back and hole.

When worn, it is always hooked at top.

For Clerks and Assistant Clerks, it is made with collar and turn, as Diagram 151.

Three holes above, and four below turn.

¼ inch white cloth, round cuffs.

NAVAL CUFFS.

Diagrams 152 to 191.

The distinction marks of the Royal Navy consist of the way the cuffs are trimmed, the width of the lace used on the collar and other parts, the shoulder straps, epaulettes, and caps.

The most important of these is the cuffs.

Nearly all full dress cuffs are finished with a pointed white slash on cuff, starting from the forearm seam of sleeve.

Those for the Military branch have the top row of braid formed into a ring.

Those for the Civil branch are finished plain.

Diagram 152, Admiral of the Fleet.

Diagram 153, Admiral.

Diagram 154, Vice-Admiral. 155, Rear-Admiral and Commodore, 1st class.