Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/147

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CUTTING OVERCOATS.
131

The depth of scye measure is taken from nape 1 to 2.

The across measure is taken from front of scye 9, to front of scye on opposite side, 10, Figure 2.

The front shoulder is taken from nape point 1 to bottom of scye at front, point 11, Figure 3.

Carefully avoid any looseness, or, in other words, keep this measure rather to the tight side.

The over-shoulder is taken from depth of scye on back point 2 over 12 and down to the bottom of front of scye front 11, also rather closely.

When taking this last measure it will be well to note if the coat over which the measure is taken is built up with shoulder pads.

These measures may be taken with absolute accuracy by the exercise of ordinary care.

Some cutters find the level of depth of seye on the back by putting the tape over the shoulders, saddle fashion, and bringing the ends back under the scye, till they meet in the centre of back.

They then insert a pin or make a chalk mark, and measure as above.

The former plan ensures the most certain accuracy, the latter is the most expeditious.

A complete scale of average measures will be found in Part II.