Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/249

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OF CUTTING.
225

DEALING WITH WORKMEN.

Write your instructions out definitely.

Describe the kind of figure the garment is for, so that the workman may help you.

Thus, for stooping figures the collar should be extra short along crease row, and sleeve forward hanging.

Give your work out intelligently, that is, note the special abilities of each man and let him work on those garments on which he excels.

Never expect a man to do the impossible in the matter of time.

Always endeavour to avoid night work.

Give your men as early a start as possible.

Try to arrange your work so that each man shall have the best possible log.

Do not encourage the "boot" or "sub" system.

Discourage payment before the work is done.

Never find fault with your workmen before others.

Be courteous and gentlemanly to every female worker.

Give praise where praise is due.

Encourage skilled labour by every possible means.

Distribute the work equally in slack times.

Never take a present from a workman.

See that justice is done to your employer.

On no account pass bad workmanship.

Listen to all the complaints your workmen have to make, and do your best to remove all grounds of grievance.

A little forethought is worth a deal of afterthought.

Harmonise the standard of work required with the price paid for making.

Teach your men how to carry out your wishes.

Be willing at all times to learn from your men.

MAKING-UP IN BRIEF.

Marking Threads should be put in exactly in the marks.

The seam sewn ¼ inch inside the marking threads.

Those parts which fit into a hollow of the body should be shrunk such as sidebody at waist.

As a general rule, those parts out hollow should he stretched (exceptions: top of sidebody at back scye, and underarm of sleeve).

The round parts should be drawn in and shrunk, the fulness being pressed in the direction of the nearest prominence.

Fulness is easily distributed by means of a drawing thread put in before seaming.

The canvas should be shrunk before using.