Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/262

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238
VINCENT’S SYSTEMS

Tightness of Scye (See Diagrams 337 to 342):—Read comments on them on a preceding page.

Fulness at Front of Scye:—

See Diagram 348, with comments on same, on a preceding page.

Coat. Slipping Off Shoulders:—

Enlarge scye, or reduce the size of neck; or let out at waist according to cause (see Diagram 380).

Coats Lifting at Sides when Arms are Raised:—

Bring scye higher by shortening at shoulder of back and front, as Diagram 378.

Adjust size of sleeve to altered scye and if possible reduce hollow of undersleeve, as in Diagram 379.

Horizontal Creases Across Waist:—

Let out over hips and give more width to waist, as Diagram 381.

Dragging on Top Button:—

Crooken shoulder or let out under arm, see Diagram 382.

Looseness in Hollow of Shoulder:—

Let out at neck and scye end of shoulder; insert V's in canvas and generally work up shoulder (see Diagram 383).

DEFECTS AT BACK.

Crease across Top of Back:—

Shorten back at top as Diagram 384. If back has been lulled on forepart put on plain.

Horizontal Fold across Back:—

Shorten back at shoulders and neck, as Diagram 384. Adjust sleeve to altered scye.

Fulness at Top of Sidebody:—

Let out over round (as Diagram 385), or take in at top of sidebody.

Circular Creases at Top of Sidebody:—

Lower sidebody at top (as Diagram 386) and take in at top of sideseam.

Hanging Away at Waist:—

Shorten front shoulder (as Diagram 387) or take in at bottom or sidebody.

Horizontal Creases at Waist of Sidebody:—

Let out at bottom of sidebody and give a little more skirt below.

Perpendicular Fold between Blades:—

Take in back and sidebody at sideseam; or crooken the shoulder with the object of bringing the garment more to the front.

DEFECTS IN SLEEVES.

Sleeve Tight at Elbow when Arm is brought forward:—

Lower forearm at top as Diagram 389.