CHAPTER LIII.
DEPARTURE FOR THE HILLS.—LANDOWR.
First View of the Snowy Ranges—Saharanpūr—Mohunchaukī—An Adventure—The
Keeree Pass—Rajpūr—Motī—The Gūnth—Hill-men—A Jampan—Ascent
to Landowr—Hill Flowers—Purity of the Air—View of the Himalaya—The
Khuds—Mussoorī—Rhododendron Trees—Mr. Webb's Hotel—Curious
Soap—The Landowr Bazār—Schools in the Hills—Cloud End—The White
Rhododendron—Storm in the Hills—Hill Birds—Fever in the Hills—Newlands—Death
of Major Blundell.
1838, March 16th.—We drove out twenty miles, to the place where the palanquins awaited us, travelled dāk all night, found a buggy ready for us at the last stage, and reached our friend's house at Saharanpūr the next morning by 8 A.M. On the road, about five o'clock in the morning, I was much delighted with the first view of the snowy ranges; I never anticipated seeing mountains covered with snow again, and, as I lay in my palanquin, watching the scene for miles, breathing the cool air from the hills, and viewing the mountains beyond them, I felt quite a different being, charmed and delighted. Mr. and Miss B received us very kindly; and I had the pleasure of meeting an old friend, Captain Sturt, of the engineers;—the man whose noble conduct distinguished him so highly, and who was shot during the fatal retreat of the army in Afghānistan. In the evening we visited the Botanical Garden; it is an excellent one, and in high order; some tigers were there, fiercely growling over their food, several bears, and a porcupine. The garden is well watered by the canal, which passes through it. The Governor-
