Page:Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu/435

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chap. xx.
ON THE USE OF THE ROPE.
375

extricating one man who breaks through a bridged crevasse if the rope is taut; but the case may be very awkward if two break through at the same moment, close together, and there are only two others to aid, or perhaps only one other. Further, the rope ought not upon any account to graze over snow, ice, or rocks, otherwise the strands suffer, and the lives of the whole party may be endangered. Apart from this, it is extremely annoying to have a rope knocking about one's heels. If circumstances render it impossible for the rope to be kept taut by itself, the men behind should gather it up round their hands,[1] and not allow it to incommode those in advance. A man must either be incompetent,

THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE.

careless, or selfish, if he permits the rope to dangle about the heels of the person in front of him.

The distance from man to man must neither be too great nor too small. About 12 feet between each is sufficient. If there are only two or three persons, it is prudent to allow a little more—say 15 feet. More than this is unnecessary, and less than 9 or 10 feet is not much good.

It is essential to examine your rope from time to time to see that it is in good condition. If you are wise you will do this yourself every day. Latterly, I have examined every inch of my rope overnight, and upon more than one occasion have found the strands of the Manilla rope nearly half severed through accidental grazes.

  1. For example, when the leader suspects crevasses, and sounds for them, in the manner shown in the engraving, he usually loses half a step or more. The second man should take a turn of the rope around his hand to draw it back in case the leader goes through.